Bearded Dragons (Pogona vitticeps) make excellent pets for reptile lovers.These lizards are called Bearded Dragons due to their ability to puff out and blacken the flap under their chin. They are active, entertaining, amusing, reasonably sized (adults are typically 18-20 inches), tame, hardy (they can live from 8 to over 12 years), and have great personalities! They tend to be easier to handle and care for than other lizards like iguanas, because they are more docile reptiles and tolerate being held well although there are always exceptions. Most bearded dragons do not bite or show any signs of aggression. They can come in a variety of different morphs including normal (grey/brown), German giant (with males sometimes exceeding 24 inches), red/gold, sandfire (red/orange), tiger, striped, citrus, leather back, silky smooth, hypomelanistic (bleached appearance and clear toe nails), leucistic (grey-white), green, gold iris, and more morphs are emerging as Bearded Dragons are becoming one of the most popular pet reptiles. Bearded Dragon can cost anywhere from $30 to over $150 depending on the morph, size, age, and color. Also, the set-up for these reptiles can run a few hundred dollars, and crickets can cost about $0.05-$0.12 a piece in a pet store. (You can order crickets, waxworms, and superworms in bulk at some websites, which can save you a lot of money. The best place I’ve found to order crickets and superworms is from The Cricket Factory a.k.a crktman6ami on ebay). Also, any new adult reptile pet should have a parasite test which usually cost around $50. Good hygiene is essential when handling Bearded Dragons, because, like other reptiles, Bearded Dragons can carry Salmonella. It is best to wash your hands both before and after handling a reptile. You do not want to expose your pet to anything on your hands that might be harmful, and you do not want to contract Salmonella after handling a reptile.
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Enclosures and Supplies:
Bearded Dragons are native to the arid desert regions of Australia, thus enclosures must be warm and dry. Below is a detailed list of supplies you will need to properly set-up an enclosure for your Bearded Dragon.
- At least a 40 gallon tank for one adult Bearded Dragon and at least 90 gallons for two Bearded Dragons. Enclosures should be long and wide rather than tall and narrow. If you have more than one Bearded Dragon, you will probably need to separate them at times although some females can get along together. This means you will need an additional cage and set-up. Two males should not live together, and a male and a female should be separate except for breeding times. IMPORTANT ADVICE: If you plan on using an old, second-hand, or used cage, you must thoroughly clean it with a bleach solution to kill any parasites and/or organisms. Use 1 part bleach to 5 parts water and let it soak for at least 20 minutes then rinse thoroughly. You can look at local classified ads for a used tank to save a lot of money, but again it must be thoroughly clean and sanitized before you use it. The tank does not need to be completely water tight.
- A quality UVB 10.0 desert light and lamp or hood. You can get a Mercury Vapor light or a quality fluorescent tube light. The best is 10.0 ReptiSun. Avoid coil bulbs. UVB light should span the length of the cage. Bearded Dragons need UVB light to make D3, which they need to absorb calcium. UVB bulbs need to be replaced about every 6 months to 1 year to maintain maximum effectiveness. TIP: On warm days, bring your Bearded Dragon outside on a screened in area or mesh enclosure. (Don’t use glass or plastic enclosures outside, since UVB light cannot penetrate thru them and they can amplify heat to very dangerous levels). Beardies love natural sunlight, and it is the best source of UVB for them. Some people in warm climates even house their bearded dragons outside permanently.
- A secure lid for the cage. Bearded Dragons are good climbers, so you will need a cover to keep your beardie from escaping. You CANNOT use a glass or plexiglasss hood, because UVB light cannot penetrate them.
- A basking light and lamp. The basking site temperatures should reach 90-100 degrees. Lights should be no further away than 1 foot in to be effective. Bearded dragons are cold blooded and need warm temperatures to properly digest their food. You get reflective lamps at a hardware store instead of a pet store to save some money, but try to get one with a ceramic base not plastic.
- Sand substrate for adults. Bearded Dragons are from the Australian desert, and they enjoy digging and burrowing. Some people use newspaper, reptile carpet, or other substrates, but I find my adult Bearded Dragons enjoy sand best. They like burrowing under their caves and digging themselves a little bed almost every night. Sand is safe as long as the enclosure is set up correctly and it kept clean. Baby Bearded Dragons, however, should not be kept on sand because of the risk of ingestion and impaction. For babies, use newspaper (black and white only), blank paper and/or paper towels which are cheap and easy to clean. TIP: Buy natural filtered play-sand for adults. It is super cheap (about $4 for a 50 lb bag), and it is safe. It is also very easy to clean. (Make sure you have a good poop scoop. I use plastic scoops and cheap plastic sand castle shovels). DO NOT buy calcium sand, because it can cause impaction.
- Thermometers and a humidity meter to insure proper temperatures and humidity levels are maintained. There should be a cooler zone with temperatures in the 80s, and a warmer basking area with temperatures 90- 100 degrees. It is best to have a thermometer in both the cool side and warm side to ensure temperatures remain in range. Their environment should never get below 60 degrees at night. Bearded Dragons must be able to regulate their body temperature in order to digest their food properly. They must be able to expose themselves to warm temperatures near a basking/ heat lamp, so you should have basking rocks and sticks near the source of heat. Your beardie should be able to get within one foot of the heat lamp; lamps that are too far away are much less effective. Humidity should be relatively low and remain around 40%. Humidity of 60% or higher are too high and can sometimes cause respiratory infections.
- A timer to turn lights on and off regularly. I recommend digital timers, because they tend to last longer, are more durable, and many have a battery back-up. Lights should be on about 12 hours every day, and an hour or two longer in their active/ mating season usually in spring and summer.
- Climbing decor including branches, sticks, and basking rocks. Bearded Dragons enjoy climbing and basking on sticks. Do not use sticks or branches from outside as these may be toxic to pets and contain chemicals or organisms that may be harmful. Never re-use old sticks or logs unless you are absolutely positive they are parasite free. They cannot be cleaned thoroughly if there is any parasite infection and must be thrown out.
- Hiding and shading areas like caves and tunnels. Bearded Dragons like to get away from the heat sometimes and hide in shady areas, especially during brumation.
- Calcium Carbonate supplements should not contain D3, because your pet should be getting it from UVB bulbs and sunlight and high levels of D3 can be toxic. Without proper nutrition and calcium, Bearded Dragons can develop metabolic bone disease, deformities, broken bones, and become more prone to other illnesses. Calcium carbonate is the best supplement for Bearded Dragons, and you can get it at a health food or nutritional store. My vets have advised to avoid supplements at a pet store, because they are not regulated and may even be harmful or toxic at high levels for your beardie. TIP: The best way to give your Bearded Dragon calcium is to put several crickets in a plastic bag or small container and put some calcium carbonate in. Then gently shake to lightly coat the crickets and feed your Bearded Dragon the dusted crickets.
- A shallow food and water dish and clean, filtered, chlorine-free water. Bearded Dragons enjoy the occasional dip in the water, especially when they are shedding. NOTE: Bearded Dragons are desert reptiles and don’t need to be misted every day, because it can raise humidity levels. However, some baby bearded dragons need help finding their source of water and may need to be sprayed on occasion. It may also be necessary to drip water on the tip of their nose with an eyedropper so they lick it off. It is very important that you make sure your pet gets enough water without raising humidity levels in their enclosure, because they can easily and quickly become dehydrated (especially babies).
- A feeder container(s) to keep crickets/other insects in and quality cricket feed to give them. Feeders must be kept clean, because sometimes reptiles can get mites or other parasites from insects kept in feeders. Crickets should be “gut loaded” with quality fortified cricket feed.
- Night time source of heat if your home gets below 60 degrees. These include black lights, under tank heats, etc. Don’t use infrared bulbs, because they are not good for reptile’s eyes and bearded dragons don’t like them. (Mine threw a fit when I tried to use one). Also, don’t use hot rocks, because they can sometimes cause serious burns.
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“The Bearded Dragon Manual” by Phillippe de Vosjoli is the best book available about bearded dragons.
Food:
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Bearded Dragons are omnivores and eat a variety of food including mustard greens, turnip greens, dandelion greens, collard greens, romaine lettuce, some fruits and vegetables, super worms, waxworms, roaches, and crickets. It is best to feed bearded dragons in the morning and/or at least 4 hours before their lights turn off for the night. This will give your pet time to properly digest his/her food. Adults should be fed approximately 80% greens (adding in some fruits for variety) and 20% crickets and other insects (this is a source of fat and protein). Baby Bearded Dragons should primarily be fed size appropriate crickets (no bigger than the space between their eyes) in addition to being offered fresh leafy greens every day. It is very important to expose them to a variety of fruits and vegetables when they are young, so they get used to eating other foods. Baby and juvenile beardies should eat approximately 80% crickets and 20% greens (some fruits). Food should be finely chopped up to an appropriate size for them to eat easily.
- Greens should be offered every day. These greens include turnip greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, collards greens, and romaine lettuce. They should be washed thoroughly and chopped up to an appropriate size before offering it to your pet. DO NOT give your beardie iceberg lettuce as it contains no nutritional value. Beardies should only be given spinach and kale in moderation, because calcium binds to the iron in it. TIP: spray greens with water before offering them to your pet. This will help keep your pet well hydrated.
- Fruits should be occasionally and sparingly offered and experimented with to what fruits your beardie likes. Bearded dragons tend to have different tastes in foods. I’ve found that all of my beardies enjoy chopped up peaches. Some will also eat chopped up mango, papaya, kiwi, banana, pear, blackberries, raspberries, strawberries, honeydew melon, cantaloupe, grapes, and apples. They may also eat red hibiscus flowers on occasion as long as they have not been treated with any chemicals. Too much fruit can cause watery poop, so only give them fruits as treats in moderation.
- Crickets, wax worms, roaches, and superworms should be offered to adults 3 to 4 times a week. Babies, juveniles, and sub-adults should be offered smaller size appropriate crickets daily. Again, crickets should be no larger than the space between the bearded dragon’s eyes, because larger food can cause impaction and/or paralysis in hind legs. Beardies should be allowed to eat as many crickets as they want in 5- 10 minutes, and when they have stopped eating remove the crickets. Before giving crickets to your pet, put them in a plastic bag or small container with some calcium carbonate. Shake and then feed them to your pet. Crickets should be supplemented every other feeding, and should be “gut loaded” with fortified cricket feed. This will ensure your beardies gets an adequate amount of calcium in their diet. Babies should each be fed separately in another small cage to ensure that uneaten crickets do not feed on your beardie. Also, baby bearded dragons that have to compete for food are likely to nip/attack each other, which can result in toe nips, missing toes, tail nips, tail deformities, and other injuries. Feeding each baby separately will ensure than each beardie is getting an adequate amount of food and eliminate competition for food. Do NOT feed your baby bearded dragon mealworms. The mealworm’s chitin is too hard for them to digest. Only give adults freshly malted mealworms and cut them in half before feeding them to your beardie if you choose to give them mealworms at all. Mealworms that have not been properly digested can sometimes eat their way out!
- Commercial pebble diets may also be offered to Bearded Dragons in moderation. I’ve had some beardies that like Bearded Dragon food pebbles and others that don’t. I usually only offer it to them in addition to their regular diet.
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Some people also give their adult bearded dragons pinky mice. This should only be done once or twice a month at most due to the high fat content in pinkies. It is also best to only offer them thawed out frozen pinkies to avoid any possible parasite infection.
What to Look for When Purchasing a Bearded Dragon:
- Look for a larger, plump, alert Bearded Dragon. Don’t buy a Bearded Dragon unless it is at least 6 weeks old and at least 6 inches in length. Younger Bearded Dragon babies are very cute, but they have a greater chance of becoming ill or dying. They can also suddenly stop eating and may have to be force fed. It is definitely worth it to pay a little more for a bearded dragon that is at least 6 weeks old.
- Look closely at the Bearded Dragon’s limbs, tail, and toes to make sure they are not swollen or broken. Broken bones may be a sign of metabolic bone disease. Also, limbs and toes that twitch or tremble are a sign of metabolic bone disease.
- Make sure the Bearded Dragon is active and alert and is eating regularly on a proper diet.
- Make sure it has clear and bright eyes that are NOT sunken in. Sunken eyes are a sign of dehydration, and the animal may be near death.
- Look for fullness in the limbs and tail especially in the base. Make sure you cannot see the tail or hip bones. Lizards store fat in their tails.
- They should have healthy clean skin with no lesions.
- Watch the bearded dragon run around and make sure he/she is using all of the limbs and not limping or stumbling. Look for any deformities. A missing toes and tips of the tails is not a big deal if it has healed properly. These injuries usually happen from nips from cage mates or improper shedding.
- Look at the enclosure the bearded dragon has been kept in to make sure it is clean and the food is fresh. Make sure the bearded dragon has gotten proper expose to UVB light and has been given calcium supplements.
- DO NOT purchase a Bearded Dragon if it is skinny, listless, or the eyes are sunken in.
- When you bring a new bearded dragon home it is normal for him/her to be nervous and timid for the first few days. He/she may not eat well for the 2-3 days. They usually warm up to you quickly though and get used to getting handled.
Tips and Interesting Facts:
- Bearded Dragons have unique personalities, and some even like different foods than others. For example, my adult male Bearded Dragon likes banana and Bearded Dragon pellet food, whereas my other Bearded Dragons refuse to eat them. Some Bearded Dragons are more active, easier to handle, heavier sleepers, more social, etc. This is part of what makes owning Bearded Dragons so much fun! They are all unique and interesting!
- Bearded Dragons communicate with each other with head bobs (asserting dominance), hand waves (which means “please leave me alone”), and other behaviors. It is fun to watch them interacted with each other, and it is a good idea to get more than one Bearded Dragon so these behaviors may be observed (although they may need to be kept in separate enclosures).
- Bearded Dragons go through a “winter shutdown” phase called brumation, in which they are much less active, sleep a lot, eat less, and may remain hiding in shelters. During this time, the temperature should be lowered to 60-70 degrees with basking temperatures of 75-85 degrees. Brumation can last from a few weeks to 5 months. The bearded dragon should not lose much if any weight in this period and will remain in good condition. Adult bearded dragons that are about 18 months or older go through brumation every year. Younger bearded dragons most likely will not go through brumation the year they have hatched.
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Many lizards have a “third eye” on the top of their head also known as a parietal eye. This eye is sensitive to changes in light and is used to detect predators above. You will notice that your Bearded Dragon is always aware of what is above him/her. Bearded Dragons also have a small flap to cover their nostrils to protect it from sand and other objects. Additionally, Bearded Dragons have small sharp teeth and a lot of power in their jaw. If an adult bites you for any reason, it is likely that it will hurt and may draw blood. Also, never use glass eye droppers to give fluids, supplements, meds, etc. to your beardie, because he/she can easily break them in his/her mouth.
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Bearded Dragons sometimes use “gaping” to control their body temperature. They will open their mouth when basking in light to cool down their body. Short periods of gaping is usually not a sign of alarm as long as his/her breathing remains normal and is not heavy or labored. Prolonged heavy or labored breathing could be a symptom of a respiratory infection, which would be need to treated as soon as possible. Prolonged periods of gaping can also mean the enclosure is too hot and the temperature needs to be adjusted immediately.
- Bearded Dragons will spread out like a pancake when basking in light (especially natural sunlight). They also lean into the light and may even change to a lighter color.
- Bearded Dragons may dig a ditch or burrow in sand to sleep in.
- Bearded Dragons can sleep in some very awkward and uncomfortable looking positions. This is completely normal and entertaining. TIP: The best time to hold your Bearded Dragon is at night when he/she is sleeping, because it wouldn’t try to run away. Also, they tend to snuggle you!
- Bearded Dragons can become a lighter shade that is often their prettiest color when they are sleeping. You may also notice that young bearded dragons become brighter and develop more intense coloration after they shed.
- A bearded dragon’s skin may become grey or white when it is about to shed:
- It is normal for a Bearded Dragon’s closed eyes to bulge out for a few seconds on occasion, especially if he/she is shedding or about to shed. It is also normal for your beardie to be in a bad mood while he/she is shedding. They may also rub up against things to shed skin. They usually enjoy a bath at this time, and it helps soften their skin and makes it easier for them to shed.
- They lick their surroundings (although not as much as some other lizards, including iguanas).
- Keep a bottle of hand sanitizer next to the cage so you remember to sanitize your hands after handling your pet.
- Reptiles need the proper conditions and environment to reach their full genetic growth and color potential. The better you take care of your bearded dragon, the bigger and more attractive he/she will become.
- It is very important to handle Bearded Dragons often starting at an early age, so they get used to people.
- The white solids in a bearded dragons feces (or any reptiles’ and birds’ waste) are urates (like urine) and are completely normal. If the urates are not white or light yellow, it could be a sign of a serious health problem like organ problems, dehydration, parasite infection, etc. The urates can also slightly change color in breeding season (usually becoming more red).
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It is not uncommon for a bearded dragon to point up or curl his/her tail while running around, excited, in warm water, or hot surroundings.
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If you see your adult female bearded dragon digging a lot in her cage during the day, she might need to lay her eggs. Put her in a large container with at least 1 foot of sandy soil. I use a couple bags of chemical-free topsoil and some play sand. Then pat down the soil and moisten it with water. Start a hole for her with a small shovel and check on her after awhile to see if she’s laying eggs. She might not lay her eggs if the conditions are not to her liking, so may have to make some adjustments. Some people also let their bearded dragons lay their eggs in water, although this may not work with all beardies.
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- Some female bearded dragons may lay eggs without being mated.
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The tip of a bearded dragon’s tongue is usually white (or lighter pink) and a little sticky. This helps them catch prey.
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It is normal for a Bearded Dragon’s beard to puff out and/or turn black if he/she is excited, ready to mate, ready to fight, scared, or spooked. Males tend to do this much more often. However, if the black beard is constant it could be a sign that the bearded dragon is in pain or something is wrong with his/her habitat. The skin under the scales of a bearded dragon’s beard is jet black.
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You may find your Bearded Dragons love water! Some of them really enjoy playing in shallow baths of 1/2″ – 1″ of water. (Although prolonged expose to water could cause your beardie to develop a respiratory infection). They can be very entertaining in water! A warm bath can also help your beardie when he/she is shedding or if he/her has become constipated. Giving your beardie a few drops of olive oil and rubbing your pet’s belly will also help if he/she is constipated.
- Baby bearded dragons grow up fast. They can easily grow more than an inch in a month and can even grow as much as an inch in one week!
Warnings:
- You will read a lot of information about Bearded Dragons and some of it might be conflicting. It is best to use your own judgment in deciding what is best for your pet.
- Be aware of chemicals and objects around the house that a Bearded Dragon might come into contact with when it is out. Bearded Dragons (and other reptiles) are very sensitive to chemicals and can die quickly if they are exposed. They can absorb liquids through their skin, so they can be exposed without even ingesting the poison. Make sure you wash your hands both before and after you handle your Bearded Dragon.
- DO NOT expose your bearded dragon to temperatures that are too hot or too cold. Temperatures should range from 80-100 degrees during the day and never get above 110 degrees, and never fall under 60 degrees at night. Reptiles are cold-blooded and need proper temperatures to digest their food.
- DO NOT leave objects on the floor if your Bearded Dragon is out and be aware of household plants that might be poison. Bearded Dragons tend to eat (or try to eat) anything that looks like it might be food, so be careful what your pets are exposed to. TIP: Potho plants make great house plants and are edible and safe for Bearded Dragons to eat as long as they have not been treated with chemicals.
- DO NOT feed or let your Bearded Dragon eat a Dragon Fly or fireflies! They are poisonous and will kill your dragon!
- Avocados are toxic to beardies!
- DO NOT feed your beardie insects from outside as they might have been exposed to parasites, pesticides, herbicides, or other chemicals that can be very harmful or deadly to your pets.
- Be careful not to get any hairs in your pet’s food or cage. Longer hairs that are ingested by your pet are very dangerous, because they can tear your pet’s intestines, cause impaction, or other digestive problems.
- When your bearded dragon is outside, you must keep an eye on them. They are trouble makers and will climb the walls, screen, furniture, etc. They are good climbers, but not great ones. They may suddenly fall when climbing and could seriously injury themselves. They always keep things interesting.
- Avoid feeding Bearded Dragons mealworms. The skin on mealworms cannot be digested by Bearded Dragons, and mealworms that have not been digested or killed while being eaten can eat their way out of your Bearded Dragon. Also, mealworms do not offer much nutritional value for your pet. Crickets are much better for your beardie.
- Keep other pets away from your beardie’s cage and surroundings, because they will likely stress out your dragon.
- Never pick up your dragon by the tail. This can injury your pet. Also, if your Bearded Dragon losses his/her tail, it will NOT re-generate. You should pick up your beardie by gently putting your hand under their belly and lifting them up by supporting their stomach and legs.
- DO NOT use hot rocks since they can sometimes cause serious burns.
- Stress can increase the potential for illnesses, diseases, parasites, and other organisms to spread, so it best to make sure their cage is set-up properly and kept clean and tidy.
Warning Signs- See you exotic veterinarian immediately if you observe any of the following behavior:
- Sunken eyes- This is a serious sign of dehydration and your pet may be near death.
- Decreased Appetite and/ or Weight-loss
- Lethargy / Listlessness
- Swollen limbs, bumps, sores, lesions
- Paralysis- This is a sign of broken bones, nervous system disorder, or poor nutrition.
- Discharge/ mucus in mouth, nose, or eyes- This is a sign of infection.
- Heavy /labored breathing- This is a sign of a respiratory infection.
- Abnormal / runny or watery feces – This is a sign of parasites and dehydration. Also, especially foul smelling feces can be a sign of parasites. Also note that some fruits and greens can cause runny feces, so keep their diet in mind when analyzing their waste.
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NOTE: Bearded Dragons are prey animals and may not show any signs of being sick or ill until he/she is near death. It is very important to prevent illness and keep your Bearded Dragon in good health, because it may be too late to do anything when you start seeing signs of illness. Find a vet that is qualified and knowledgeable about your exotic animal, and always ask questions when you need to. Finding a good vet might take some work on your part. Many vets may say they work with exotics, but many are not familiar or well-informed about specific species like bearded dragons. DO YOUR HOMEWORK AND FIND A QUALIFIED VET! (If you live in the Tampa, FL area, the best exotics vet around is Dr. Teresa Lightfoot, DVM, DABVP at Florida Veterinary Specialists & Cancer Treatment Center (FVS)).
Ages of bearded dragons:
Baby: 0-2 months. Hatchlings are normally about 3-4 inches in length. They should be fed size appropriate crickets 2-3 times daily. They should be allowed to eat as may crickets as they want in a 10 minute period. Crickets should be dusted once a day. They should also be introduced to a variety of chopped up greens in a shallow dish. (I like to use inverted plastic container caps). Water should be available in a shallow container, and the walls of the cage may need to be misted.
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Juvenile: 2-4 months. After 2 months, bearded dragons should be at least 6-7 inches and could even be as large as 9 inches! Young bearded dragons grow quickly and it is very important that they have a nutritional diet at this stage so they reach their genetic growth potential. They should be given crickets twice a day. These crickets should be dusted every other time. They should also be introduced to a variety of different greens daily and fruits on occasion. Greens include turnip greens, mustard greens, romaine lettuce, and occasionally kale and spinach (the iron in kale and spinach binds to calcium, so avoid giving your beardie too much too often).
Sub adult: 4-maturity (usually around 18 months). They should be offered crickets once or twice daily, which should be supplemented every second or third day. Greens should make up a more substantial part of their diet. You can introduce other food like superworms, fruits, and commercial bearded dragon food in moderation.
Adult: 18 months +. Adults are typically 18-20 inches and German Giant morphs can be as large as 24 inches. They should be offered greens and crickets every day or every other day. They should be allowed to eat as much greens as they want. Small amounts of fruits can also be offered. You can also offer them commercial bearded dragon pellet food in addition to their regular diet. It is important to make sure they still get an adequate amount of calcium, so it best to supplement their food every other day.
The Importance of Parasite Testing in Reptiles:
Unfortunately, parasites are common in reptiles and are the most common disorder with Bearded Dragons, so testing your pet is extremely important. Some reptiles may show signs of a parasite infection like diarrhea, abnormal stool (usually watery), particularly smelly or foul feces, decreased or increased appetite, weight loss, dehydration, and with some parasite infections you may even see things moving in the animal’s feces. Others may not show any signs of parasites until it is too late to do anything to save their lives. Also, it may be hard to detect the signs of parasites if your pet was infected before you got him/her (as is the case in many incidences), since you would not see changes in appetite or stool. Parasites can be easily spread and can quickly infect an entire collection. They spread through ingestion of feces of an infected animal, contact with a contaminated object or environment, and from contaminated food. It is also possible for hatchlings to have coccidia even if they were never exposed to the environment of the parent.
Having your pet tested for parasites may save your pet’s life. To have your pet tested, you must collect a very recent fecal sample from your pet and bring it to your vet for testing. Some vets may require your pet to stay at their office until a fecal sample is produced. The sample will be examined under a microscope to determine the type(s) of parasites and the best course of treatment. The most common parasite in Bearded Dragons is coccidia, which replicates in the lining of the intestinal tract. Bearded Dragons are also susceptible to pinworms, tapeworms, hookworms, and other parasites. Fortunately, the parasite test is not very expensive or invasive (usually costing anywhere from $10 to over $60), and there are effective de-wormers and anthelmintics (primarily Albon and Panacur) that can help eliminate parasite infections. If a parasite is present, it will also be essential to thoroughly clean your pet’s enclosure and throw out all porous objects that cannot easily be cleaned like climbing sticks, rocks, organic decor, etc. It is also a good idea to house you pet on newspaper and paper towels and used cardboard accessories until the infection is cleared up, so the cage can be easily cleaned daily and every time your pet defecates. The cage and non-porous accessories should be meticulously cleaned and soaked with a water/bleach solution for at least 20 minutes, rinsed thoroughly several times with clean water, and dried. If an object cannot be cleaned thoroughly, it should be thrown out to ensure it does not re-infect your pet. The cage will need to be cleaned thoroughly every day until the infestations has cleared up (usually taking 6-8 weeks). It may be necessary to do more than one round of treatment to eliminate the parasite infection. If the infection cannot be eliminated completely, a de-worming schedule may be advised by your vet.
It is necessary to quarantine any new reptile before introducing it to other health pets to avoid spreading a possible parasite infection. Every new reptile needs to be tested for parasites. Even pets that you’ve had for awhile should be tested. I found this out the hard way. My first and favorite female Bearded Dragon that I had for 3 years died from a parasite she had the whole time I had her. She was active, alert, eating regularly, mating, laying fertile eggs and then she suddenly died. I was heartbroken especially since I had taken her to a vet before she died, and the vet told me she was perfectly healthy. I had even brought up parasite testing during the appointment with the vet, but I was led to believe there was no reason to be concerned, since there were no obvious signs of parasites and her behavior was normal. Had the test been done, she would still be here today. Please don’t let this happen to you. Please find a knowledgeable vet, and insist on getting your pet tested for parasites.
Metabolic Bone Disease and Calcium Deficiencies:
Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) and calcium deficiencies are also common it reptiles. MBD is caused by a calcium deficiency in the form of low blood calcium (hypocalcaemia). This happens when there is not an adequate amount of calcium in a reptile’s diet, and this is why a balanced diet including leafy greens and supplement crickets/waxworms/superworms is so important. MBD and calcium deficiencies can cause soft bones, multiple fractures, deformities, bloating, constipation, muscle twitching, and in extreme cases seizures and death. The good news is MBD is completely avoidable as long as your pet is fed a healthy diet supplemented with calcium carbonate and getting the vitamin D3 from sunlight and/or UVB lights.
Vitamin D3 Deficiency:
Vitamin D3 deficiencies are also common in captive reptiles since most of them are housed indoors and natural UVB light must be substituted with artificial UVB bulbs. Vitamin D3 deficiencies will cause problems with the absorption of calcium since vitamin D3 is critical to the process. The good news is vitamin D3 deficiencies are also completely avoidable as long as your reptile gets adequate exposure to quality UVB light (preferable the natural kind). This is wy it is so important to have a quality UVB light (as discussed in the “Supplies” section). Also, on nice warm days take your pet outside on a screened in area or mesh enclosure for at least 20 minutes 3 times a week. I also recommend buying a mesh enclosure that can easily be brought outside on warm sunny days (like a mesh doggy playpen, which are inexpensive and foldable. Don’t use a glass enclosure outside since the it can amplify the light and get too hot). Always supervisor your pets when they are outside and never leave them unattended. Just 20 minutes 3 times a week outside or more will make a huge difference in your pet’s life.
Determining the Gender of a Bearded Dragon:
It should be easy to determine the gender of an adult Bearded Dragon if you very gently lift up the bearded dragon’s tail and look at the base of his/her tail and thighs. (There are more invasive methods to determine the gender, but these techniques should only be done by an expert). Males have dominant femoral pores on their thighs and have bulges on the sides of the base of their tail. Also, males tend to have larger and broader heads than females (although this is not always the case). Females have much smaller femoral pores and have one small bulge in the middle of the base of their tail. You may also notice the differences in male’s and female’s behavior. Females tend to do a slower head bob than males. It is usually difficult to determine the gender of baby bearded dragons, since males have not developed large femoral pores and any bulges may be difficult to see and distinguish.
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hi there, thanks for all the info- that is all very informative. I’m hoping you or someone else might be able to advise me on a question regarding my bearded dragon. I’m really worried and sick she is ill as I found her this morning with her beard black, as well as her tail turning black, her tongue is white instead pink and even her teeth are black. She is 6 years old and I never had any issues with her. every now and then she stops eating, but that’s normal for her. I just recently gave her a bath to help her with her constipation- which was successful and always helps. She has been sleeping lots lately and hiding out but I blame it on the heat as it is very warm these days. My vet is closed for the weekend and there are not many experienced vets here who look after reptiles. Do you have any idea what it might be??? Thanks for your time!!!!!
I’m so sorry to hear about your ill beardie. The best thing you can do for her is to get her to a vet as soon as possible. Many areas have vet offices that are open 24 hours (in the Tampa area, Florida Veterinary Specialists now called BluePearl Veterinary Partners are open 24 hours). Any vet office should be able to get her started on an IV, because she’s probably dehydrated. They should also be able to give her antibiotics or parasite medicine depending on what they find. The constipation makes me think it could be a high load of parasites, while the black tail sounds like it could be an infection. Is her stomach tense? Are there lumps in her belly? Without proper testing and most likely an x-ray, it’s almost impossible to tell what it is. If it is not possible to get her to a vet right now, give her fluids in the meantime while continuing to give her baths to help with the constipation. Also, make sure she gets something to eat to keep up her strength and keep her warm and as comfortable as possible. In the morning if you still can’t take her to a vet, make sure she gets a lot of natural sunlight outside. I really hope this helps. Best of luck with everything.
thank you for the help. do you know if it better to have a female and a male or a female and female? do not care if they mate.
It is probably best to get two female bearded dragons and preferably females that have been kept together for awhile and are relatively the same size. Many females get along just fine together but others don’t. Every beardie is different. Just keep in mind that not all bearded dragons will have a harmonious relationship, and you may end up needing separate cages for them. I have a female that refuses to share a cage and will attack any cage-mate. If you have a male and a female, you will definitely need to separate them during mating season, because the male will continuously try to mate with the female. This can be very stressful and unhealthy for the female. A male and a female tend to get along okay during non-breeding times, but again every beardie is different. I had a male and female that would snuggle each other and were absolutely adorable together.
Having two females is the only way you might be able to avoid having two cages and set-ups. If having another set-up and cage isn’t a problem, then you can have either two females or a male and a female. I hope this information helps.
How do I decrease the humidity level in my habitat (40 gallon tank)?
You can decrease the humidity level by removing any water dishes from the cage if you have any. Adult bearded dragons don’t need a water dish, since they should get most of their water from their food. If you do choose to have a water dish make sure it can’t be tipped over and only contains a small amount of water (less than 1/2 inch). Bearded dragons also don’t need to be sprayed with water in their cage, which will significantly increase the level of humidity. (They tend to enjoy an occasional bath instead for getting sprayed). Use a substrate that doesn’t hold water like sand or newspaper, and remove any soiled or wet substrate promptly. If you are already doing these or if the humidity is still significantly too high, you may want to keep the cage in a room with a mini dehumidifier. In my experience as long as the cage is kept dry and clean and the bearded dragon isn’t exposed to an excessive amount of humidity for a prolonged period, humidity hasn’t been a problem if the bearded dragon is otherwise healthy.
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I have a 6 month old bearded dragon, she is healthy in every sense of the word. However, her tail is grey compared to the rest of her, and the grey colour has a cut off point at the base of the tail, its been like that from a couple of sheds ago, I know its not due to shedding as it was like that straight after a shed.
Young bearded dragons grow up fast and it can sometimes takes awhile for their tails to catch up to the rest of their body. It is completely normal for a young bearded dragon to have a grayish tail, because the tail grows and sheds differently than the rest of the dragon. It is also normal for the tail to be one shed behind the rest of the body. If the tail ever starts to turn black, hard, and/or brittle that is a sign that the tail is starting to or has already died, and you would need to bring the dragon to the vet immediately. Bearded Dragons do not regenerate their tails like some other lizards.
Hi u really know if stuff. I’m worried bout my bearded dragons he’s bout four months old he’s eating well very alert and active. But when he does the toilet it’s watery and greenish in colour. Also it absolutely stinks and I mean stinks. Do you think it’s anything to worry about.
Watery and stinky poop can be a sign of parasites. You should bring a fresh stool sample (2 hours old or less) to vet to have it checked out. The vet may prescribe albon and/or panacur depending on what type of parasite(s) (if any) are found. It is important to get the dosing right especially for a young bearded dragon. Sometimes baby bearded dragon are born with parasites from their mother, but they can also get them from their diet or environment (like used cages or accessories). A bearded dragon may not show any other signs of parasites. Watery poop is especially concerning, because it can dehydrate a beardie very quickly. Parasites can kill bearded dragons if they have a heavy load of them. Parasite testing should be a part of regular care for any beardie and should be done at least once a year and preferably twice a year.
Watery, stinky, and green poop can also sometimes be due to their diet. Turnip and mustard greens are known to cause smelly and green poop. Green poop can also be caused by some bearded dragon commercial green pellet food. Water poop can be caused by too much fruit in their diet. Fruit should only be given as the occasional treat. You should have your bearded dragon checked for parasites and then adjust his diet to see if that clears up the problem. Hope this helps. Best of luck with your beardie!
Hi thanks very much for your advice we will get him to the vet to be checked out.We have been feeding him cockroaches then locusts and crickets he has a mixed diet we were told to give him spring greens which he loves he has no fruit at all in his diet.All his surroundings were bought from new and we keep it as clean as we can nothing is left lying in his tank.Thanks again
It sounds like your bearded dragon is very well taken care of. Parasites are the most common illness in bearded dragons, so chances are that’s what’s wrong if there turns out to be any problems at all. You never know what a beardie was exposed to before you got him, and they can also get parasites from feeders. It’s best to have a bearded dragon tested to be sure parasites aren’t a problem, especially since if left unchecked parasites can kill a beardie. You might want to also change up his diet to include more turnip and mustard greens, because they are better for beardies than spring greens. You start to cut back on giving him insects to a few times a week. Again, best of luck with everything!
Hi sorry to bother you again,what is the best substrate that is edable and safe and also looks good?We have been looking in different pet stores but are unsure what to buy.
The best substrate for beardies is filtered play sand that you can get a hardware store for only a few dollars per 50 lbs bag. It’s cheap, easy to keep clean, easy to replace, safe for adult beardies, looks good, and they LOVE to dig in it. I also sometimes make sandcastles with play sand for my beardies to enjoy and destroy. If you use play sand or any other sand, you will need feed your beardie using shallow bowls or a flat clean surface to minimize the risk of sand getting into their food and ingested. There are no suitable edible substrates that I’m aware of. Calcium sand should be avoided, because it can cause impaction if too much is ingested. You may also use reptile carpet, tile, or newspaper if you like, but it’s harder to keep clean and beardies will miss out on being able to dig. Baby beardies should be kept on paper or paper towels to avoid the risk of ingestion and impaction.
I just got my first dragon three days ago. He is very active and has a healthy appetite, but I haven’t seen any feces in his cage. I gave him a warm bath, and rubbed his belly but that didn’t work. Am I being paranoid or is this normal for young beardies?
How old is your beardie and does he have any hard/large lumps in his belly? Is there any discharge? It is normal for adults and sometimes sub-adults to go several days without defecating especially during brumation. Also, moving a beardie to a new home can be stressful for any reptile and may slow or delay the digestion processes a bit which is normal. Young bearded dragons should defecate at least a few times a week. If the bearded dragon is two months old or less, it could be a sign that something is wrong if he/she doesn’t defecate every day or every other day, because some babies are born with deformities or other problems that make it difficult or impossible to void. Also, very young beardies can become impacted very easy and will usually have a large and/or hard lump in their belly. They may also have some discharge but no stool. This would definitely be a cause for concern. Another problem that could delay a void is improper temps and/or dehydration.
It sounds like your beardies behavior is normal, and he may just need a few days to settle into his new home. The fact that he is very active and eating well is a very good sign. You should just ensure that the temps in his habitat are appropriate, so he can properly digest his food. You might even want to give him a little bit of water and sometimes Acidophiliz+ can help.
Hi. Great site and info. I have two young beardies purchased about two months ago. They were roughly 4 inches long and now are between 6-7″. Both have always had a voracious appetite for crickets and recently started eating their greens and veggies. One is noticeably smaller than the other in overall size/width and three days ago refused all food. Nothing visually unusual other than on occasion it will gape (which I’m familiar with)but followed by extending it’s tongue and mimics a retching motion. Otherwise, active, alert, basks in it’s hammock. I have given it a warm soak and stroked it’s belly, which is not hard or protruding. Any ideas or is this normal from time to time? I am a first time beardie owner and have fallen totally in love with these little guys! Any help would be great. Thanks!
It is not normal for a baby bearded dragon to stop eating and refuse all food for several days. (It can be normal for adults to not eat for several days especially during brumation). It looks like you bought a baby that just hatched since they hatch at about 4 inches. Reputable breeders and pet stores shouldn’t even sell bearded dragons that young, because some of them just don’t make it. Bearded dragons should be at least six to eight weeks when sold and at least 6 to 7 inches long. It is sometimes normal for some baby beardies to be bigger than others the same age. For example, I have some babies that are over 10 inches long at 3 months and one baby that is only 8 inches and healthy. Although, if you buy a beardie you should always try to get the biggest and more robust one in the group. Some bearded dragons are just more vigorous eaters than others and some eat more crickets and some may eat more greens. For the baby beardie that isn’t eating you can try to force feed him/her; I have saved a few that way. Buy a can of small crickets at a pet store and try to force a few small crickets into his/her mouth anyway you can safely without injuring the baby. Do not feed your beardies mealworms, because they are too hard for them to digest. You should also try to give him/her some fluids. He/She may be extending his/her tongue due to dehydration. Get a plastic (don’t use glass) eye dropper or syringe, fill it with water, gently slip it into his/her mouth, and give him/her as much water as he/she can safely and easily swallow. You should also get Acidophiliz+ if you can find it at a pet store and follow the same instructions. Also, light mist your beardies with water daily and check the temps and humidity in the cage to ensure they are not too high or low. This will ensure than your beardies can properly digest their food. If it’s warm enough where you are, bring your beardies outside to get some natural sunlight, which can help perk them up and is really good for them. I really hope this helps, and your beardie starts eating on his own again.
So I got my baby beardie about three weeks ago first reptile studied up on him before I bought him he is very active and alert I noticed the last few days though his head is the same color as it was when I bought him but the rest of his body is greyish almost ashy i know probably a stupid question but is it because he is shedding or stress because I not seeing any loose skin his hot side of his cage is about 90-95 cool side about 70-75 eats a lot of crickets he also seems a little moody
Yup, you’re right. He’s definitely about to shed. The head, tail, and limps can shed awhile before or after the rest of the body. Beardies can also be more moody when they’re going through a shed. Misting him with water, vita-spray, a shedding aide or giving him a warm bath might improve his mood and help him shed.
Hi, i’m a bit concerned about my beardie, she/he (we can’t tell lol) is 3 years old, havn’t really had any problems until now with her, the last week shes been going black whilst in her tank and running to one side of it and sctraching and jumping and flicking her substrate everywhere and jumping up the glass etc, i take her out and shes fine, but then she sometimes runs up to the outside of her tank and starst stratching at it lol, shes eating and pooping fine, temps are fine, the pet store said this was normal behaviour and might be in season? but im worried, please help. x
It could be a lot of things. It could just be normal beardie behavior. Sometimes they are just act a little crazy, and sometimes they just need more time outside of the cage. Try to take her out as much as you can and if possible take her outside to get some natural sunlight. You may also want to try a different UVB 10.0 light too. (Some UVB 10.0 lights only provide adequate UVB light for about a year and then need to be replaced). It could be that she is preparing for brumation (winter shut-down), and if she is only about 3 years old this might be the first time she goes through brumation. Sometimes before brumation beardies become very active. They can also do this after they come out of brumation. If she is about to go through brumation, make sure she has somewhere comfortable to stay like a cave she can dig in with playsand. Has there been any change in her appetite or diet? Sometimes beardies go crazy after they poop or if their cage is dirty trying to get away from it. You might want to clean out her cage and accessories and use just regular filtered play sand (from a hardware store) as the substrate. Has she been checked for parasites? Parasites can cause their stool to be especially smelly and cause changes in their behavior. It’s definitely a good idea to have her checked or treated if you haven’t already. Is it possible that she has eggs? Pregnant females will frantically look for a suitable place to lay their eggs and may cause they behavior you’re writing about. Usually, you can see lumps in the beardie’s belly if she has eggs and a suitable place to lay eggs will need to be provided to her. I hope this information helps.
Hi Mary, Thank you for the quick response. I will try changing her UVB light, i cleaned her tank out a few days ago but no change there, her poop is normal still expect it’s smaller than usual but other then that no difference and its not really that smelly, she eats as nrmal too. She hasn’t mated so she couldn’t be pregnant unless i’ve heard of something called a phantom pregnancy? If it is brumation how long will it last for would you say? Thanks for the reply it’s really put my mind at ease x
It could also be breeding season where you are, which could be what the pet store is talking about. (I’m in the US and it’s winter here, but I’m not sure what season it is where you are). Breeding season here is during the spring and summer. Adult bearded dragons can become more active in this time and some can even become more aggressive (mates especially, but females too). A male’s beard and even belly can become black. They may also head bob. Females may become restless during this time. One of my female bearded dragons even became aggressive towards other females. It should be easy to tell if you have an adult male or female. Males have larger waxy femoral pores on their thighs (please refer to the pictures in the guide above).
Getting some new accessories, more things to climbs, and moving things around might help your beardie become less restless in the cage for awhile. I also like to give them a warm bath on occasion to help calm them down afterward. Try to keep things interesting for your beardie. You can also keep things interesting by trying different foods on occasion, etc. The more healthy distractions and entertainment you can provide, the better.
Sometimes females can lay unfertilized eggs, so it’s something to consider if your bearded dragon is digging a lot. Although, they usually have a change in appetite.
If it’s brumation time, the temperature should be dropped to the lower 80s and the lighting should be gradually reduced to about 10 hours a day and 14 hours of darkness for about 2 months to stimulate natural sunlight. A bearded dragons brumation can last anywhere from a few days to a couple months and during this time they eat a lot less.
Again, I hope this helps.
Okay thanks a lot for your advice, it’s stopped me worrying a lot lol, i worry about any change small or big in my animals. I live in the UK and we’re just sort of passing out of winter now.She does go black on her beard after shes been trying to scratch and jump for a while but the spots on her legs are pretty small so i would guess probably female? I will make sure to get some more stuff for her to keep her entertained
thank you again x
Hi me again, i’m starting to worry again as dracos now stopped eating and poopin gbut is still as restless and scratchy jumpy at glass as before, i tried taking her outside and she didnt like that i tried giving her a bath and she almost fell asleep in it, but it seems like she only does this when she sees glass, she went up to my front door earlier and started jumping up at it, please any advice would be helpful im so worried
x
Bring her to a vet that specializes in exotics right away. Please see my comment below:
Bring her to a vet that specializes in exotics right away. Being that restless and not eating then almost falling asleep in a bath is not normal. Make sure she gets checked for parasites. Also, make sure she gets some fluids in her ASAP.
The vet near me wont be in for another few days, shes calmed down for the last half an hour which is nice, and she was eyein gup a locust but didnt go for it, she’s basking at the moment, a little bit after a bath she had what looked like white wattery stuff come out, like whats usually with the brown poop but it was just tehw hite stuff and very watery, someone told me this was okay but i dont no :/
That definitely sounds like parasites to me. It will cause watery poop, and it’s not okay. They get dehydrated really fast. I don’t think she can wait a few days for a vet. Find someone that can treat her now
hey i need advise my female bearde dragon is 1 year old i got my male bearded dragon a week ago he was alone for 2 years and my female always had a partner i am scared to put them toghter if i bring the female near the male he charges to the window and the he lick his lips can i put them together or not thanks
Unfortunately, you can’t put them together. The male will continuously mate with your female, which is not healthy for her. Adult males and females should be kept separately. Females should be at least 2 years old before they are mated, because otherwise it can cause stress, shorten their lives, stunt their growth, or other problems like metabolic bone disease, ect.
My females love to watch Internet TV (Hulu) and I do mean they LOVE it, It is a form of entertainment for them and gives them something see when i am not around. Image you stuck in a small room and nothing to do, you go nuts, so to avoid them from going stir crazy, the TV is great.
Great advice! The more entertainment and distractions you can give them the better. I gave my adults a big sand castle the other day, and they had a great time destroying it and digging in it. It kept them entertained for about a day and a half!
Hi just wondering if you could help please we have got a male beardie and we are getting a female we are going to keep them apart but then put them together to mate how long should we leave them together and when we have the babies we are looking to keep one of the females would it be ok to house it with it’s mother and if so at what age can we do that.Thanks.
Usually, if you put a male together with a female he will get the deed done quickly (like in seconds). If not, you can leave them together for about a day. Just don’t leave them together for an extended time, because the male will continuously mate with the female and stress her out.
If you keep a female baby, you can probably keep her with her mother when she is full-grown at about 18 months. Although, not all females are accepting of other females especially when they have previously been kept alone and sometimes they can become more aggressive at certain times of the year (like breeding season). You should be prepared to keep them separate if need be.
I hope this helps.
Hi,
I have a beardie who is about 10 months old. Over the last eighteen weeks she has laid eggs twice, 6 weeks apart, she is now digging again and I think she is ready to lay again. She is a lone female, is this normal??
The petshop has recommended that I put her with a male, but I feel she is too young for this.
Any advice ??
Many thanks
Your instincts are right, she is too young to be mated. Females should be full-grown and about two years old before being mated. Mating a female that is too young can cause a shorter life-span, stunted growth, and nutritional problems. Laying eggs can take a toll on her body, so make sure she is getting plenty of calcium and eating a healthy diet with more protein and fat than usual. It is possible for young females to lay eggs. (I had a 10 month old from a breeder that laid two clutches when none of my other females had done that before). How old was she when you got her? If she was seven months or older and had been around a male, it is possible that she had been mated before you got her. It is also possible for females to sometimes hold sperm for several months and lay more than one clutch from one interaction. I hope this information helps.
HI, we have had our beardie for almost a year now…he has shed a few times. Eats lots of veg and fruit with crickets or super worms all covered in calcium powder. He goes outside into the sun most days. It may be that he is about to shed but I havent seen this happen or maybe not taken notice before..his head has turned a greyish colour. What does this mean? PLease give me good news..although he is my teenage son’s pet I am the one who feeds him and takes him outside and basically he has become my 3rd son!!! Please help! Regards Maggie
It sounds like you’re taking really great care of your beardie, and he’s just about to shed. They usually turn grey shortly before they shed and sometimes they can be grey for days even weeks before they shed. This is an example of what one of my dragons looked like shortly before he shed and after: http://helpforyourpet.com/2010/11/before-and-after/ The change in color can be quite drastic especially as they’re growing up. There’s usually no change in appetite, but they sometimes become a bit more moody during this time. They usually enjoy a bath and being misted daily with water to help them shed.
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great advice i just need to know this i got my beardie about 5weeks ago and when i first fed him a horned worm when he went to the bathroom it was white now his neck is turning yellowish greenish please help and reply.
Has he been tested for parasites? Have him tested/treated for parasites. Parasites can cause abnormal and changes in stool (like white or watery stool) along with other potentially serious and deadly health implications. Also, make sure he’s getting enough fluids and greens. Turnip greens and mustard greens will usually make stool become more green in color. Without a picture and more information, I can’t tell you why his neck is changing color. If you noticed any concerning change in behaviour, you might want to take him to a vet that specializes in exotics. Beardies can turn different shades due to medical conditions, stress, mood, shedding, and other reasons. You can also try getting him some natural sunlight outside and try giving him a bath to make him feel better in the meantime. Hope this helps.
Well i cant take him outside because its winter its way to cold im in Michigan and i only had him for 5 and a half weeks so i dont think he really showed any behavior changes also will chlorine water kill him and if so where can i get some chlorine-free water?
You can used bottled water, and it only needs to be about 1/2 inch deep in a container that fits the whole bearded dragon’s body (you don’t need to fill a whole bath tub). Water with too much chlorine in it can dry out a beardie’s skin and harm him if he drinks it. A small amount of chlorine in the water is okay, so it just depends on your area’s water.
It is very important to test for and treat parasites. Parasites are the most common health problem in bearded dragons, and if left untreated they can kill bearded dragons. It can definitely cause the changes in stool that you have described.
1 more thing my beardie keeps sticking its tongue out and moveing its throat or swaloing for no reason i just dont know whats wrong im going to take it to the vet this week but now every since that 1 time when it wrnt to the bathroom its now have been black it was white that one time i just dont know how to get it to drink i read the advice i just have some of the materials listed for it to drink he only goes in the water and sit there is that how it drinks or something im going to petsmart to get this mini waterfall will that help it drink i dont really see sunken in eyes i dont do you have any examples if that please reply right away!!
Bring him to a vet ASAP! It cannot wait. Black stool can be a sign of very serious medical conditions such as a hogh load of parasites, blood on stool, organ failure, ect.
The best way to make a beardie drink is to fill a plastic eye dropper or syringe (never use glass) with water, liquid supplement, medication, ect., gently slip it under the beardie’s lip, and carefully force the dropper/syringe into his mouth, and then release the liquid into his mouth.
I really hope you help your beardie in time and he is okay.
i have a female and a male beardy they seem to be mating but the female is a fair bit smaller will she be alright
Females should be full-grown and about two years old before being mated. Mating a female that is too young can cause a shorter life-span, stunted growth, and nutritional problems. Laying eggs can take a toll on her body, so make sure she is getting plenty of calcium and eating a healthy diet with more protein and fat than usual. How old is she, how much smaller is she, and is she smaller due to any medical problems (like a nutritional problems, parasites)? The male should be kept apart from the female after they have been mated to prevent the male from continously mating with the female, which is extremely stressful for the female and can lead to the health problems. If she’s very healthy, is fed a very nutritious diet, and is separated from the male, she should be okay. I hope this information helps.
hey my bearded dragon had a black neck and now its starting to get white, hes also digging like crazy into the sand, just earlyer he was trying to climb up the side of his cage! hes cute though likes to bob his head and it looks like hes dancing!
Beardies definitely have a lot of personality! They can also get stir crazy sometimes. The more distractions you can give them the better. Take them outside, give them a bath, rearrange their cage, what ever you can do to entertain them.
my BD hind right leg looks swollen and hes been very weak i also havent seen him eat for two days his spine looks slightly curved to causing an arch when he walks has anyone got and idea whats this is or how i could help him?
It could be a few things, but this sounds like metabolic bone disease (MBD). Take him to a vet asap to confirm and give him some liquids in the meantime since he hasn’t been eating. He will need to be put on liquid calcium, and it will be a long recover period with special care and attention. He will require a special diet rich in calcium, protein, and fat. Also, the more natural sunlight you can get him the better. I really hope this helps.
I have a 6 month old beardie and she jus went through a shed but she has been sleeping a lot more then she use to her tail has turned a dark grey and she seems to be hiding a lot as well. This is my first beardie and I’m worried that something may not be right
Beardies can become moody when they’re shedding. It sounds like her tail still needs to shed (it is usually the last part to shed and will be grayish until it sheds). It is also normal for the tail to be a slightly different color than the rest of the body when they are young. You can try to help lift your beardie’s moody by giving her a warm bath, giving her a few extra treats, and if possible bring her outside for natural sunlight. Also, check the temps and humidity in her cage and make sure her cage is kept clean and comfortable for her. If all this fails to improve her mood, you should bring her a vet the specializes in exotics and make sure she gets a parasite test. I hope this helps.
My beardie is probably about a year old and recently we noticed that he walks funny when he is in his cage. its almost as if he drags his belly along the floor and flops his limbs around. I cant think of any other way to describe it. We dont take him out of his cage as much as we should but when we do he seems to run around fine. We have the reptile carpeting on the floor and a few rocks that he gets on and off of fine. He just seems like sometimes he doesnt know what to do with his limbs. We are not sure if this is a normal thing or a medical issue. He also gets poop stuck on his butt quite often and it looks as if its plugging him up. I give him a bath to loosen it and then try to get it off with a damp towel. Is there a way to avoid this happening? Also, one more thing. I feel like I am such a bad mom with all these problems but he also has a bump on the very tip of his lower jaw. It almost looks like a giant pimple. He lets me touch it and its hard, It doesnt seem to bother him but it doesnt look right. He gets crickets every day dusted with calcium and some greens depending on what we got at the store, though he never seems to be too interested in the greens. Any insight would be very helpful!
I strongly recommend you change the flooring in his cage to sand, newspaper, or something else that can easily be cleaned and replaced. Reptile carpet cannot be cleaned thoroughly and can hold odor and parasites. This can cause stress for beardies. If stool is getting on a lizard the will try to get it off by rubbing/dragging their lower limbs and body trying to scrap it off. This is probably they behavior you’ve been seeing. Make sure his cage is big enough for him (adults need at least a 40 gallon tank and accessories to climb on) and is being kept as clean as possible. Also, do your best to take him out as much as possible and try to get him natural sunlight when it’s warm out.
As for the bump on his chin, it could be a few things including an infection, mouth rott, an abrasion from rubbing, ect. It needs to be checked out by a vet that specializes in exotics. You should also get a parasite test, because lizards with parasites will also drag/rub their lower body to try to scrap them off. Parasites are very common in bearded dragons, and can cause a lot of behavior changes and health problems. I hope this information helps.
Hi, first off I’d like to thank you for all the information you have put up, it has been extremely helpful. I have recently gotten a baby bearded dragon, and was wondering if you had any good ideas to keep him entertained. ps. he loves to chase. anything along those lines you might have an idea?
Thanks! I’m glad you like my site! Bearded dragons definitely love to chase things! Make him work for his treats by having to chase them (like I did in this video: http://helpforyourpet.com/2011/12/bearded-dragon-christmas/ ). Some bearded dragons will also chase a laser or the cursor on the computer (http://helpforyourpet.com/2009/12/baby-bearded-dragon-tries-to-eat-a-mouse/), although they usually loose interest fast. Give him a variety of foods to keep things interesting. You will find that they like some insects and fruits more than others. (Mine like cantaloupe and organic peaches and enjoy super worms more than some other insects). Move things around in his cage and get some new accessories to climb on that you can switch out on occasion. When he’s an adult, give him some sand to play and dig in. Mine also enjoy sand castles in their cage that they can destroy.
Take him out of the cage as much as possible. They love to run around, climb, and explore new places and really enjoy time outside on warm days. They usually also enjoy the occasional bath (my beardies also love playing in shallow puddles on our patio).
When you’re not around during the day, try play some videos for him to watch. I’ve heard some beardies really enjoy this. The more things you cam do to entertain and distract them the better. I hope this helps. Enjoy playing with your beardie!
Thanks, these are great ideas. I’ve also noticed he loves to hunt and stalk the crickets, so I’m going to put some more obstacles in his tank so he has a challenge.
Hey, I got my lovey BD when he was 3 months old. He’ll be 5 in 10 days. But I’m worried about him. He seem to be very stressed when he is in his tank, but when I take him out he’s fine. I used to have him in a 20 gal when I got him. and he was stressed in that so I switched to my older sisters snake tank (after cleaning ofc)I figured a bigger space would make him happy. But its been awhile since the change and he is still stressed out when I put him back. The only thing that I haven’t changed was lighting ( I have a heat bulb, UVB bulb and a heat bulb that has UVA) that stays at 100 in his hot spot and 90 in the tank, 80-70 in the cool area where his water is. And He has been on repti-carpt in both tanks. I’m not sure what is stressing him out and I really hate seeing him like so. He eats fine and LOVES to run and look around anytime he has the freedom to. I just want him to be happy in his tank when I’m at work or hes not on my shoulder.
Is there anything you think that might be the issue?
Thank you.
The more things you cam do to entertain and distract them the better. Move things around in his cage and get some new accessories to climb on that you can switch out on occasion. How big is his cage now? He needs at least a 40 gallon tank. They love to run around, climb, and explore new places and really enjoy time outside on warm days. They usually also enjoy the occasional bath (my beardies also love playing in shallow puddles on our patio). Switch out his reptile carpet for some play sand. They love to dig in sand, and it’s much better than reptile carpet which can hold parasites and is impossible to completely clean. Mine also enjoy sand castles in their cage that they can destroy. Give him a variety of foods to keep things interesting. You will find that they like some insects and fruits more than others. (Mine like cantaloupe and organic peaches and enjoy super worms more than some other insects). Make him work for his treats by having to chase them. When you’re not around during the day, try play some videos for him to watch. I’ve heard some beardies really enjoy this.
You might also want to get a check-up at a vet that specializes in exotics and have him tested/treated for parasites. Parasites are very common in bearded dragons and can cause a lot of changes in behavior and health. They can also make a bearded dragon very uncomfortable in his own cage. Make sure his cage is kept very clean and it should be thoroughly cleaned every couple months with a disinfecting agent (I use a bleach solution, let it soak for at least 20 minutes, then thoroughly rinse with water, and clean the glass with a vinegar solution).
Adult bearded dragons can also get stressed out if they don’t go into brumation (winter slow down). You can artificially simulated this by turning down the temperature a few degrees in the winter for several weeks.
Also, adult bearded dragons can get stressed out in breeding season typically in the spring. The best thing you can do for them then is to keep them distracted with the above suggestions and taking them out as much as possible.
I hope this information helps.
Thank you Mary :] and his tank is 4 feet long and about 2 feet deep (1 foot across). But I put some boxes under the carpet so his heating spot can reach 100-110. I wasn’t sure if I should put him on sand till he was older, since He likes to lick everything, I was scared he would eat the sand. Maybe I should try and see what he will do. I’m just scared that he’ll die because of something I did.
Hi
My beardie leg was bitten off Like 4 months a go. I just wanted to know what i can do to help him. The tip of the leg is black and when he lost his skin the leg turnd white. When he gets sun or hit the leg get black spots like he gets on his hole body to absorbs the hitte. what can i do?
You should bring him to a vet who specializes in exotics. He will most likely need antibiotics and possibly some surgery to repair the wound, help it heal, and prevent it from spreading. The only thing you can do on your own is use iodine on the area to help it heal and keep it clean. Do not use any other chemical.
You’re right, you should wait till he’s older for sand if you’re not sure he’s ready or big enough (I wasn’t exactly sure if you meant 5 years or months. Some of my suggestions are for when he’s older). I like to keep young beardies on newspaper, because it’s a lot easier to clean and it makes me have to clean the cage often and move things around in their cage. Young bearded dragons love to chase things and they should have a great appetite, so make sure he gets a good variety of foods and get him used to eating greens in a dish. I usually feed young beardies a couple times a day. First with greens, then insects, and sometimes again in the afternoon if I’m around. It’s good to mix things up for them whenever possible. Try to also get him natural sunlight whenever possible. Young beardies can be very active and curious; this is a sign you have a healthy bearded dragon, and it sounds like you’re doing a great job with him. A parasite test should be done when he’s an adult.
Hi, my BD is 3 years old now and I’ve had her since she was 6 months old. Was just wonderung if you had any suggestions… She isn’t interested in bugs anymore and barely touches her veggies. Also, the tip of her tail has started to go black. Any idea what that could be from?
Many thanks,
Kelly
Hi Kelly,
The change in appetite could be due to parasites. Parasites are very common in beardies and can cause a lot of changes in behavior and health. Without seeing her tail, I cannot tell you what it is. It could be a bad shed, an injury, an infection, etc. Bearded dragons cannot lose and regenerate their tails like some other lizards, so it could be a serious problem and it could spread. It really needs to be checked out by a vet that specializes in exotics, and you should also get her tested/treated for parasites. I hope this helps.
Hey Mary, I’ve been having great fun with my beardie. He’s about 4 months old, and I’m just wondering how long should I handle him for at a time?
Hi I have a 5 yr old male bearded dragon, took him to the qualified Vet last week as he wasnt heating and i was worried. Vet did blood test which came back all healthy, the last 2 days his beard has been black and all puffed out alsmost swollen looking and his poop is green and runny – he is also starting to shed but still not heating and just lays with his head on his basking bark looking at his light, both have just been changed and his temps are correct, night time is between 34 and 37 deg C and the night time i lower it slighty, I also bath him every second day to help with his shedding. – Should I take him back to the vet?
Did the vet do a parasite test? The vet needs a very fresh stool sample (with in two hours) to test for parasites. The runny stool and change in appetite definitely sounds like it could be a high load of parasites. You should definitely take him back to the vet with a fresh stool sample and have him tested/treated for parasites. Parasites are very common in beardies and can cause all the problems you’re describing.
Hi – Thanks for your reply, he took blood from him and sent that away and it came back all clear.
He still isnt eating and his beared is not black anymore but he is still pretty puffy! His poop is not green anymore but a normal brown colour and it doesnt help that he seems to only poop when i give him a bath. I have been told by a breader that he is going into adult hood and sometimes they go up to several weeks without eating and become very grumpy and non responsive.
Hi its me again my last beardie died the 1 i was talking about…… i got two babys from petsmart they are very active but sometimes thet close their eyes it looks like their eyes are about to pop out o.o and just swallow alot i tried the dropper and they still wont drink the water what kind of bottled water can they they drink can it be purified or can i use tap water from my sink………… also is it bad if their is a little white in their poop or green their just staring to eat their veggies and actually like it i got them on friday about 4 or 5 days ago they do have their tempature at the right heat i atleast think its sometimes in thee high 90′s to the high 80′s and they just wont drink water for some reason……….. you said they absorb liquids through skin they splash in their water dish and sit there sometimes if you can post some pictures to show example of sunken eyes or if you have baby beardies post a vid of them and is it okay when they close their eyes sometimes it looks like their eyes about to pop out
and they swallow like for no reason i just seat their throat moving up and down…………..
I have a 10 month old baby bearded dragon, I used to have 4 older ones too, she came from one of my older ones so I have had her since she was born and have taken very good care of her, I’m not sure how big she should be, but she still looks very small. I’m very worried about her as I checked on her this morning and half of her head is a very greyish bubbly texture, It has never been like that before, and I know she isn’t shedding her skin. I’ve bathed and let her swim around in luke warm water in the bath for a little while to see if that would help, but it’s stayed the same. She hardly ever eats her food, I normally feed her cucumber with calcium sprinkled over it as a friend of the family breeds lizards and told me to do that, I keep her hydrated and take very good care of her too. She’s been lying under her log for weeks and hardly ever moves unless I pick her up to check she’s still alive. I live in the UK and it is very hard to find an experienced reptile vet, and it costs a lot of money too. Any idea’s on what it could be that is wrong with her?
Hi,
i have two beardies, their like siblings they came from the same beardie parents but one is old by an egg hatch then the other, the older one isn’t mines but i keep “it” in my room to give it food, water, lovins, and everything else it’s owner doesn’t give, but the younger one is mine. Now i’m a a new owner so i look a lot of stuff up on the inter-web to make sure their healthy and get what they need. i have many other animals i take care of, and is known to give my animals “human chara..” such as feeling, and moods. Which i think is also healthy for them. When they we’re young they shared a “room” together until the older one started “attacking” the younger one (mine) so we had to move them from one another because mine {the younger one} was kinda losing limbs { he had no tip tail, lost toes, ect..}. But i heard it was also healthy for beardies to interact with one another and sense i know no other owner i try to see if these two will interact but all the older one wants to do is attack! so i was wondering what this could mean and what i am to do?
thank you so much,
Ooh and when the older beardie was young she never really got the attention she needed, unlike the younger one {mines}, so now as shes older shes mean”er”, she puffs up a lot more and will open her mouth at u, so it scares people away from her, i still try to get her out and give her the attention but to tell the truth sometimes she scares me when she starts to jump, she has never been known to bite but i can never know. Plus i want to let them out around the room to strach their legs
.. Sorry i meant to run around but i have cats and is scared that the cats will mess with them, what else do i do?
Thank you, even more
hello my baby bearded dragon last night was with a dark beard and his throat was swollen and it appeared that the thenar swallow something, it seems better this morning but still did not eat anything, what should I do.
my beardie is almost 2 1/2 months old. she has stopped moving, eating and, drinking. i am very worried about her. we don’t know whats wrong. do you know what it could possibly be? thank you.
My bearded dragon died Saturday morning after a very brief eposode Friday night; he war around 6 or 7. I noticed that he was acting strange in his cage, and his beard was very black which I have only seen once before. He also was making a gasping noise a couple of times, and defeacted when I picked him up. My daughter said that I just scared him when he was getting ready to go to the bathroom. The next morning we found him dead, with some blood coming out of his mouth. I took him to the Vet for an Autopsy, haven’t yet heard back. I am devastated. I think I am more upset with this lizard than when my parents died. I feel very guilty, and can’t get him out off my mind. Thought we were doing everything right.
I’m so sorry to hear about your bearded dragon
They always die so suddenly and with so much heartache. 7 years is a great life for a beardie. You did an excellent job with him. Did the Vet find out what happened and give you some peace of mind?
Sending my condolences,
Mary
hi i have a 7 month old bearded dragon. he’s a boy and lately I’ve noticed that he hasn’t been able to go to the bathroom on his own. everyday other day i soak him in warm water then he poops and when he does rock like objects come out with it and then once the rock like objects absorb water i can squish them open and it reveals a powder, i think it may be the calcium powder that i dust on the crickets every other day. What should i do? I’m really worried about him
Hello I am a new owner of this fantastic creature and I am wondering what the maximum age difference between Youths should be? Kira is currently 10 weeks old and we are looking at getting a second one but are unsure if we should get a second tank or if she will be fine in the same tanks as her new friend. I appreciate the help P.L.U.R.
Sorry for my late reply. If you get any another female beardie, you may still need another cage even if they are a similar size and age. Every beardie is different, and they have different personalities. Not all female beardies get all with each other all the time. For example, I have two females that I normally keep together except during certain times of the year (one gets very mood during mating season and will not tolerate another beardie in the same cage). The rest of the year they are fine together and even snuggle eachother. Some female beardies may be fine together all the time, but it is best to have a back-up plan if things don’t work out. Best of luck with a new bearded dragon!
Can a bearded dragon travel in a small airplane??
As long as the bearded dragon is not exposed to extreme conditions (like cold temps, extreme heat, too much pressure, ect.) it should be safe to travel in a small airplane.
Hi. I’m new here and I need your help. I got a baby bearded dragon last week and I was wondering how I can find out if my beardie has salmonella or not.
You can get a bearded dragon tested for salmonella at a vet that specializes in exotics. You would have to bring a fresh fecal sample for testing (within two hours). It is usually best to assume a bearded dragon (or any reptile or amphibian) carries salmonella and always take precautions. Salmonella is spread by ingesting the bacteria. Don’t let anything that has touch a reptile touch your mouth. Always wash your hands with soap and water after handling any reptile. Bowls, accessories, housing, and reptiles should NOT be cleaned in your kitchen sink or near any surface you might eat off. Sinks or tubs that have been used to clean or bath a reptile or its supplies should be cleaned with bleach. Avoid letting a reptile roam free in your home, unless you plan on sterilizing the surfaces it has walked on. By following these rules, you can safely enjoy your new pet.
Hi Mary,
So I have two adult beardies in separate tanks one had a respitory infection and it has cleard up, but now my other beardie is showing signs of having the same thing. I had thought that my one male beardie was going to dye as he was really struggling and so i put the female in his take so he could say good by to her ( I now that sounds weird but I’m sentimental like that) Any way I was wondering if respitory infections can be spread from one beardie to another and if perhaps that is what occurred here?
The female who is now showing signs of a respitory infection has a temp of 90- 100 on her hot side which I know I should increase. Her humidity I believe got mess up because she was continuously knocking over her water dish and spilling water everywhere thus increasing the humidity. I have taken steps to increase her heat and have removed her water dish this made a big difference in our male, is there any thing else you might suggest in regards to helping her heal faster from this respitory infection?
Thanks
Jenn,
Yes, respiratory infections are contagious so that could be what happened here. You can bring her to a vet to get antibiotics and fluids. You should keep her cage as clean as possible, and it might be a good idea to keep her on newspaper or paper towels to keep her cage clean, warm, and dry. Try to make her as comfortable and stress free as possible. You might also want to use a plastic eye dropper to give her some fluids and make sure she is well fed (if she’s not eating you might have to force feed her).
You may find this information helpful: http://www.anapsid.org/rti.html
I really hope this helps and your beardie recovers quickly,
Mary
I have been trying to figure out why my bearded dragons hip bones are showing… and i mean they are sticking out far.
If the hip bones of a lizards are sticking out, it usually means the lizard is significantly under weight and may have other health problems (like parasites, MBD, other nutritional problems, etc). He/she should be fed a more nutritional diet that includes more insects, and he/she should be evaluated by an exotics vet to check of other health problems. He/she may need to be put on additional supplements and/or medications.
Hi…my beardie is about 3 months old and he appears to be healthy…..but his underside has been black more often then usual….temps are fine he he great and well hydrated I can’t think of anything that can be wrong except for he stays in his basking spot like all day except to feed….can u think of anything???
Hi,
A black underside for a young beardie can be a sign of stress. Something is probably a bit off in his environment, diet, or health causing him some stress. How often do you take him out of the cage? Sometimes just being in the cage too long can stress them out. Try taking him out outside on warm days in a safe area (like a screened in porch). Also, make sure he has plenty of hiding places in his cage, and it is kept as clean as possible. Give him a warm bath every few days or at least once a week when he’s young. Beardies usually show their best color in a warm bath and it can help them shed more easily. Make sure he’s getting a healthy diet and dust his crickets with calcium carbonate every other feeding. Parasites can also cause a black under side, so if notice any other changes (like in his appetite, behavior, or stool) have a vet test/treat him for parasites. It sounds like your beardie is just a little stressed and needs some more stimulation in his life. Hope this helps.
Mary
I have a young bearded dragon and at night it seems to act very lithargic is this normal?
Bearded dragons are great sleeper and are usually ready to sleep as soon as their lights turn off. As long as your beardie is active and alert during the day, it is normal for him to be lethargic during the night. This is a good time to snuggle your pet, because they don’t try to run away.
I have just got two bearded dragons, they were in a basic viv and I am adding to it to make it a lot more interesting for them. I keep reading that it’s not ok to keep them together. they do not fight when inside but once out the larger one becomes vey aggressive , chin blackens and ‘he’ (not sure yet!) goes for her. is it ok to carry on keeping them together or should I look at separating them? He has also been digging in the sand and scratching at the lass to come out. they are both eating well but I’m not sure how to get the to drink, any Eli would be appreciated.
Unfortunately, you will have to keep them separate. The male will stress out the female by trying to mate with her and will make her more vulnerable to health and stress problems. Also, laying eggs is very stressful for females and can take a lot of energy and nutrition out of their bodies. Males can also become violent towards females and seriously injury and scar them. You should definitely separate them. If an adult bearded dragon will not drink water and is healthy (not already dehydrated), they can absorb it through their skin, so you can try to give them a bath, spraying their skin with water, or keeping a shallow bowl of water in their cage. Just don’t spray the whole cage with water because it can raise humidity to unhealthy levels. If a bearded dragon is already dehydrated, you can try to give him water using a plastic eye dropper or syringe and slipping it gently into his mouth. I hope this information helps. Best of luck with your new beardies!
Hello There ! Well To Start Off I Have A Male And Female Beardie. I Was Having Problems With Them At First About There Eating Because I Was Told To Feed Them Greens. By Doing So They Stopped Shedding And Their Stool Was Watery. I Changed Their Diet To More Crickets And Meal Worms And They Finally Shed All The Way ! No How, Their Feet Are Turning Black And Both Have Black Underneith Their Chin. Is This Normal ? I Have Read To Give Them A Bath (Which I Was Planning On Doing Tomorrow) Because I May Be Dead Shedding ? I Have no Idea What It Is Though And It Scares Me. Bother Are 8 Months Old And Both Have Been Kept Together Since They Were Little. I Just Hope They Dont Have Parasites Because Their Old Cage Now Holds My Ball Python.
Hi,
It is not normal for their feet to turn black, and it’s not normal for their beard to be black almost all the time. A black beard and belly can be a sign of stress and possibly health problems. Watery stool is also a sign of health problems like parasites Are their feet hard, stiff, or difficult to bend? If they are, it could be a sign that the toes or foot is dead or dying and they would need to see a vet that specializes in exotics as soon as possible. If their feet are black because they are stained with feces, it is a sign of parasites. You should have them checked out at a vet that specializes in exotics and have them tested/treated for parasites. Continue to give them baths to help them shed. The male and female should be kept separate to avoid stressing out the female. You will also have to keep their cages as clean as possible and make sure they continue eating a very health diet. Some greens can also make their stool watery. It is probably best to use only turnip greens and mustard greens for the time being. I hope this information helps. Best of luck with your beardies.
hi, i have a 12 week old bearded dragon got it 2 weeks ago as a birthday present from my friends, hes very active, eats regularly etc and has a good enclosure but the past few days ive been noticing his white underside and beard area developing black lines, like vein looking structures they only appear sometimes and go away again but its being prominent the past few days and only goes away for like an hour or so. i have noticed he mostly gets them when he goes in the water. i was just wondering if this is common or am i being too paranoid
Hi Darren,
These lines can be normal for bearded dragons. Some people call them stress lines, but they are very common for young beardies as long as they don’t have them all the time. If the water is inside the enclosure, you might want to keep an eye on the humidity level and make sure it doesn’t get too high. Bearded dragons are desert reptiles and are comfortable with humidity levels around 60%. If your beardie is eating well, healthy, and active, it sounds like you don’t have to be too concerned about the lines.
Best of luck with your new beardie!
Mary
hi, for about the past half hour or so my bearded dragon has been puffing his beared and then opening his mouth making a clicking or cracking sound, i have noticed he is shedding around his mouth area, is that just his way of getting rid of it? because he wasnt eating either.
P.S he wasnt puffing his beard or opening his mouth everytime i went near him, i just heard the sound when he was on my bed and i went to investigate and thats what he was doing.
hes fine and is eating fine now
Glad to hear he’s doing fine now. Beardies can definitely act a little weird and get moody when they are shedding.
I have a beardie, female that is about 6 months old. She is 12″ and a regular. She is in a 20gallon enclosure. About a week and a half ago she had a shed, and ever since then she charges at anything that moves past the glass or anywhere close. A couple of nights ago she was on my lap and charged up my chest towards my face with her mouth open. Not all of the time, but sometimes she has charged at your hands or any movement outside of her tank. She has a healthy appetite, she eats about 50 to 60 crickets a day. I feed her in the morning and again at night. She is not fond of any vegetation, but she likes if I give her fruit. Up until her shed she was real lovey and liked being taken out of her take. She has now made me very leary of her. I haven’t been able to find any information about why she is acting this way. Please maybe you could give me some advice as to what to do. Thanks
Hi Elizabeth,
It’s definitely time to move her into a larger enclosure at least 40 gallons and change her diet to include primarily greens. It might take her some time to adjust to a new diet, but that’s normal. Give her calcium dusted crickets only a couple times a week. Also, make sure her enclosure is as comfortable and clean as possible with lots of hiding spots like caves. It sounds like she’s getting a little stressed out in her current set-up. It will also help to give her a warm bath in shallow water and spritz her skin with water when she’s shedding. Beardies can definitely get a bit moody before, during, and after they shed, but making sure they are as comfortable and well fed as possible will help them feel better. Hope this helps.
Thanks,
Mary
Mary,
Thank you for the information. As a matter of fact….My husband saw and 55 gallon tank and stand on Craigslist for $20.00 we went and got it today. It is in really good shape. Tommorrow we are going to get sand and a screen for it. Greagoir does love a bath, so I do give her one. I have started putting more greens in her tank and I will start feeding her less crickets. She defiantley loves her crickets, but I’m sure when she gets hungry she will eat the veggie stuff. I will keep you posted on her behavior. Thanks again, Elizabeth
That’s great! I hope she likes her new set-up and her behavior improves. If she continues to charge at things, you should probably bring her into a vet that specializes in exotics and have her tested for parasites. Sometimes changes in behavior and appetite are due to parasites or other health problems, but shedding and stress can also change behavior. Hopefully, her mood will improve soon with all the great changes you’re making for her.
Well Greagoir has defiantely started loving her veggies, but only one problem still remains. She is still charging at the glass and now even goes after me when I try to put food in her enclosure or take out the dish to give her more. At night she was curling up to me and sleeping and lastnight everytime I moved my hand to do anything she was ready to charge. It seems now she doesn’t even want to come out of her tank. I am at a loss as what to do, except for taking her to a vet, now just to find one. I’ll keep you updated.
Any update on how she’s doing? Did she get tested or treated for parasites? Parasites can cause changes in appetite and charging behavior.
Some adult females can also get moody at current times of the year. Usually in the spring and summer (one of mine goes crazy and can’t be around another female that she is normally okay with). Have you tried adjusting the light timer to stimulate fall/winter? I hope her behavior is improving.
Hi there, My beardie is now 14-18 months old (we not 100% sure) and just coming into spring he’s gone wild, his beard is black and he is glass dancing all day, then when you let him run around the room he literally runs around trying to climb like he’s searching for something or trying to escape, if he gets tired he finds a warm spot for a while then continues, He has also gone off his food a bit but other than that he seems strong and healthy, how can I stop his crazy antics?
Hi David,
It can be normal for some beardies to become more active and aggressive in the spring and summer especially males. The more distractions you can provide him the better. Take him out as much as possible, make sure his enclosure is big enough (at least 40 gallons), comfortable, and clean, move things around or put new hiding places in his enclosure, give hims sand to play in, give a bath on occasion, try giving some new foods, or anything that might make his life a little more interesting and entertaining. If you have any other lizards in your home, make sure he can’t see them while he’s in his home. He’s going crazy trying to find a mate. Some beardies also just have personalities that are a little more crazy than others. I have one male similar to yours, and I try to keep him as entertained and distracted as possible.
I have a bearded dragon that is about 6 weeks old and I have a few questions.
First, I am not entirely sure how often to feed him/her crickets. I have heard from once a day to twice a day, even every other day. I usually give crickets every other day (I let him eat up to 12 small pinheads or as much as he wants in 5 minutes). Should I be feeding him more?
Also—I alternate greens with crickets so his poo will not be runny. I always have juvenile bearded dragon pellets out at all times.
Second (and last!) He is very active inside his cage, but when I get him out, day or night, he usually goes to sleep on my shoulder or chest. Is it normal for him to behave this way?
He behaves normally and LOVES his greens. I think he may even prefer them to crickets!!
It sounds like you have a very healthy and lucky bearded dragon! I usually give 6 week old beardies as much fresh greens they want every day in addition to as many crickets they can eat in 5 minutes every day (and sometimes twice a day if they’re hungry later and it’s not too late in the evening for them to digest it). I also sometimes leave bearded dragon pebbles in their cage too. When they are that young, it is important they get as much nutrition as possible and it’s okay to have more fattening foods like crickets. As a beardie gets older, I slowly transition them to more greens and only give them crickets only a few times a week. You might just want to give him a few more crickets for a few months to ensure he’s getting enough fat and protein in his diet when he’s young. It is great that he is already eating great on greens and is very active. It is completely normal for him to fall asleep on your shoulder or chest especially at night. Some beardies love to snuggle and warm up on you!
Thank you so much for your help Mary!
He is my first juvenile bearded dragon. I recently lost my 6 year old beardy, Sidney, ( I adopted him when he was full grown) and couldn’t think of being without another dragon. I really appreciate your advice; it is great to know that my young friend is doing ok! (He is currently racked out across my shoulder taking a nap!)
Hi thank you for all this information….
…ive had my beardie since 07 when he was just a lil baby and always kept him in nice big tanks well heated, variety of foods, crickets, taken out pretty much daily, everything has been done to keep my lizard healthy and live happy
Just recently I noticed my lizards eyes are bulging out but after a bit they go back to normal state but it happens daily and they stay bulged for quite a bit
Its says above tht its ok if the lizard does it on occasion for seconds but this goes on about everyday…sorry for the ling message would appreciate a quick reply
Is he about to shed? Older beardies shed a lot less often than younger beardies, and it can take them a lot longer too. He may even bulge out his eyes to help ease shedding weeks before showing signs of shedding. Older beardies shedding skin is sometimes thicker than younger beardies skin making it harder for them to shed. You can try giving him a few baths to help him soften his skin and make him more comfortable. Also, during this time of year many adult beardies may be about to go into brumation (winter slow-down) and may be sleeping a lot more now and need their lights adjusted to make them more comfortable. Sometimes eye bulging can happen in the morning or evening them they are waking up or about to go to bed. As long as the behavior and health of your bearded dragon is normal and has not significantly changed, the occasional eye bulging is most likely normal. I hope this helps.
Thanks,
Mary
Thank you so much hes doing well
Love your site…I had a 2.5 yr male,Gator,since 6wks old,in may we got 3 yr old female Jani,in May. Last weekend Gator suddenly got sick and within 4 days died in my arms. We areheartbroken! We have cleaned their enclosure. Now Jani is looking very sad,she is friendly,eating drinking,actively chasing food,but when she is basking,she looks as if her heart is broken. Do you think she misses him? Also how long after mating does it take for her to lay eggs,we suspected she may be pregnant(a couple weeks ago) thanks for any advice!
So sorry to hear about Gator
Do you know what he died from? If not, you should probably bring Jani into a vet that specializes in exotics to have a health check and parasite test just to make sure she’s okay. She might miss him, but they tend to get over it fast when they get used to their new routine. Giving her a little extra of her favorite foods, taking her out some more, giving her a bath, moving some things around in her cage, getting her some new climbing/hiding accessories, and other distractions might help in the meantime.
It takes about four weeks for a female to lay her eggs after being mated. You will notice her getting bigger and will probably see and/or feel lumps in her belly a few days before she lays eggs. She will also start digging excessively in the cage if she’s about to lay eggs.
Again, so sorry to hear about Gator.
Mary
HeyI had a REALLY important question, I think one of my Bearded Dragons is really sick, her hip bones are showing she’s always dark under her neck and is barely eating a thing. As well as her feces is smelling really bad. I’m worried it may be a parasite, she’s also been acting unlike herself by trying to escape and sleeping and lounging around all day. What is the best thing I should do for her? And she also is sharing a space with a male about the same size and age, they get a long well but I feed them separately, she is typically very calm and docile but today she has been charging about, glass dancing and very fidgety, I’m very worried about her, Any help/suggestions ?
It sounds like she has high load of parasites based on the info. you provided. Bring her and the male into a vet that specializes in exotics as soon as possible and bring a fresh stool sample with you so they can to a parasite test. If it is parasites, the vet will most likely put her on Albon for coccidia (the most common parasite in beardies). Bearded dragons must be well hydrated when on this medication. Separate the male and female asap to avoid stressing her out any more than she already is. Give her lots of fluids and a bath. Make her as comfortable as possible and feed her as much as she’s willing to eat.
I hope she is okay and this information helps.
Thanks,
Mary
ive had my beardie paul for almost a year. im not sure if its a male or female, but ill just say male to make it easier. i was highly misinformed when i got him, and from reading your info im surprised hes still alive. i was told only to feed him a few times a week, and not to give him any greens until a year old. luckily i gave him some romaine this morning and he seemed to enjoy it very much. i had him in a 10 gallon tank until about a week ago because i couldnt find another one. now hes in a 40 gallon. he seems healthy, he poops at least 4 times a week, its pretty large and a light brown color. the problems i have are that he is very small and he is very skittish. i havent measured him, but id guess hes not much more than 8 inches. according to everything ive read he should be several inches longer. and hes only shed twice since ive had him, both in the first few months. also, his belly and beard are often dark, not necessarily black, but gray, and it was pure white when i got him. id like to know everything i can possibly do to make him healthy and so he lets me hold him without having to chase him around the cage and not fear him jumping out of my hands. thank you.
Hey,
Sounds like your beardie has a lot of catching up to do. In a bearded dragon’s first year, he should shed about every month and grow as much as an inch a week in his first few weeks. You should offering him greens every day and supplement (calcium carbonate) crickets every other day for now. (For adult Bearded Dragons in the winter it might be okay to feed them only a few times a week, but babies and juveniles need more). Feed him as many crickets as he can eat in five minutes, and you might even want to feed him twice a day to try to help him catch up. The best way to tame your beardie is to try to make each experience with you a positive one. You can do this by feeding him crickets and occasional other treats like some fruits or wax worms, etc. You can also take him out to enjoy warm days in the sun in a safe location like a screened in patio, letting him climb and explore a little, or giving him a bath if he enjoys them. Some beardies are very difficult to tame; they all have different personalities. They can even like different foods and activities so try a variety of things to find out what yours likes.
It sounds like he is also a bit stressed out now given his gray belly color. Try to make things more comfortable for him. The bigger enclosure you got is a great start, but also make sure the temps and humidity are right and he has plenty of hiding and basking places. For young beardies, I usually put a shallow bowl of water in their cage so they take a dip when they like. He’s too small for sand now, but when he’s larger (at least 12″) you can put cleaned and filtered play sand in his enclosure.
I really hope this information helps and your beardies grows longer and becomes more comfortable.
Thanks,
Mary
thank you very much. should i just keep feeding him and make his environment comfortable before i try to bathe him? cause hes jumped out of my hands before, luckily on some clothes while i was sitting, so he didnt get hurt. and also what types of fruits and other live feed can he have or not have?
Yes, you should continue feeding him greens daily, crickets a few times a week, and some treats. Make him and his environment as comfortable as possible. He may be finicky now, because he is uncomfortable or anxious. As he becomes more comfortable he should warm up to you although sometimes beardies stay skittish. Some beardies like cantaloupe, melon, kiwi, peaches, maybe strawberry… you can start with these and see what he likes. All of mine really enjoy peaches, but only give it them in moderation as it can give them watery stool. Fruit should only be an occasional treat. You can try wax worms in addition to crickets. When he is older and larger, he can have super worms, roaches, and large crickets. Don’t give him meal worms. Don’t give him any food larger than the space between his eyes. Hope this helps. Best of luck with Paul.
I am a new bearded dragon owner, this is my first one and she’s now 2 years old. The pet store I got her from said I was supposed to get the setup kit for them which came with a day lamp and heat lamp. She seems fine, she eats well- crickets and greens both, poops often, but she’s very small. I spoke with a lizard lady at a new cricket place-she owns a ton of bearded dragons and they’re huge compared to mine. She asked if I had a UVB light, but I said I had the day light from the store. After all this time, I haven’t had UVB….will my beardie be ok when I get one in 2 days or is it too late?
Hi Katrina,
Your beardie should be okay now that she will have a UVB light. Just make sure she continues to get a healthy diet with greens everyday and insects supplemented with calcium carbonate every other day for now. Also, make sure you get a UVB 10.0 light for desert reptiles (not a UVB 5.0 light), and try to avoid getting a coil light. Tube and mercury vapor lights are usually better. Take your beardie outside in a safe area on nice warm days to get natural sunlight, because that is what’s best for them; nothing can compare to the real thing. Unfortunately, your beardie might not ever catch up in size since she is already an adult (beardies are considered full grown at about 18 months). She might still grow some, but it’s impossible to say how much if any. The above suggestions will give her the best chance to catch up. She may also be smaller than some other beardies due to genetics, diet, being a female (males are normally larger), and breed (some beardies are or are part German Giants, which can be larger than 2 ft). I hope this information helps and your beardie starts to catch up.
Thanks!
Mary
I shouldn’t say too late, what I mean is, will she grow and get recover at this point in time with the proper UVB light. Sorry…
I have a dragon who is about 2 yrs old, typically normal activity, healthy eating and such, and in a big enough case to house the dragon. After the last shed (about a month ago), I noticed a few days ago that one of the sheds on the spike area has not let loose- my fear is that if it does not come off will this cause damage to the new skin under the spike area? I have tried using a soft brush to help remove or loosen the shed but the dragon seems irratated with the attemps.
Thank you in advance for any suggestions or advice or signs to watch out for that are health related.
m
Hey Michele,
Try giving your beardie a warm bath to let the spike area soak and soften up. You may also spray the skin with water a few times a day to soften it. They should come off on their own in time with no damage to the new skin. You can also try a shed ease spray from a pet store which helps to soften up and loosen up the skin. It may take a few times to make a difference, but I’ve found them helpful. Don’t try to pick at or peel off the skin yourself, because that can cause damage to the skin underneath. This is a common problem with some reptiles and is not usually a sign of any health issues. Although some reptiles can become more moody when they are in shed, but this usually passes when they are done. I hope this information helps.
Thanks,
Mary
I have a new beardie, Kermit, about 12 weeks old now. He is healthy, eating fine, stools are normal, loves his veggies, crickets, and other live insects, his temperatures are correct and loves to be outside of his cage. The question that I have is that in the mornings when I go into the room where I keep him to turn his lights on, I have noticed that his skin is a darker color than normal. Once his temperature is back to about 90 degrees or warmer, his skin color changes back to normal. Should I be concerned about stress or parasites? He is friendly, and very tame although at times he doesn’t want out or to be picked up. I am just wondering. I have done a lot of research but still havent found the answer. Hoping you can help me understand Kermit a little better.
Thanks,
Lisa
Hi Lisa,
What you are describing is perfectly normal for a beardie. They can change different shades of color when they are sleeping, changes in temperature/humidity, moody, or other reasons. being darker in the morning might just mean he’s ready to absorb more light and warm up. As long as he is not always dark, it is not a sign of any health problems. Changes is appetite and/or stool are the most common signs of parasites. If a beardie is dark all or most of the time it can be a sign of stress due to health problems, environment, light/heating problems, etc. If you see dark lines on a beardie’s belly all or most of the time, those are stress lines and something is wrong in his/her environment or health.
A bath for a bearded dragon should be about the same temperature that is comfortable for you at around 100 or so degrees F. The bath should not be too much warmer than the beardie is kept at on the warmest part of his/her cage. Make sure the change between the temperature the of beardie himself and the bath water is not to great; do not put a too cold beardie in a too warm bath.
I hope this information helps. Please let me know if you have any more questions.
Mary
also how warm should the temperature of his water be if i wanted to give him a bath?
Hi I got a bearded dragon and she or he is about 4-5pmths old has not growen thy much I was also told crickets Andean worms are great to feed do not give super worms as they eat the insides but today I gave 2ealworma and found it later it pooped it out but was not digested I have not ever had that problem NAND a part of the skin of the worm was still stuck to his tail. What can I do. I’m worried about size and my cat always jumps and sits on cage I have no other place to put him as I have a 2 year old that can reach other then that eats fine drinks fine and temps are normal I also put the heat lamp on at night special black light so they are warm and have proper sleep
Hi Heather,
Continue to give him size appropriate crickets and greens every day. Put greens like mustard greens, turnip greens, etc. (never iceberg lettuce) in his cage every morning. Feed him as many crickets as he wants in 5 minutes and dust his crickets with calcium carbonate powder with every other feeding. If you’re really concerned about his growth, you could even feed him crickets twice a day till he starts to catch up in size. Never give him live mealworms! They are too hard for him to digest, and they can even eat their way out if they are not digested properly. Super worms are okay for adults (about 18 months old) but only a few a day and only as treats. Depending on the size of your beardie, you could try wax worms. As a rule of thumb, always keep food you give a bearide smaller than the space between their eyes. Try to give him a warm bath in shallow water. Most beardies like warm baths after they get used to it and it can help keep them hydrated. The cat being on his cage can be stressful for him. Try to cover up parts of him cage so it’s harder for him to see the cat and make sure he has a good hiding spot in his cage like a cave. If you can, try to take him out in a safe area when possible and get him real sunlight on warm days. Make sure you have a good UVB 10.0 light for him and a good basking spot. Beardies need a lot of UVB light to grow properly.
Hope this information helps,
Mary
okay i have i question i have a bearded dragon now she hasnt been with a male but she keeps diging at her bedding and i dont know why she is doing this could someone tell me why
Some females lay infertile eggs, so they can lay eggs without being mated. Look at and feel her belly for eggs. If she has eggs, make sure she has a comfortable place to lay them with at least a foot deep of clean sand/dirt. Make sure she is also getting a nutritious diet with plenty of calcium.
If she does not have eggs, she might just be digging herself a comfortable place to sleep especially if she is about to go into brumation (winter slowdown).
I hope this information helps. Please let me know if you have any more questions.
Mary
My son just got a bearded dragon for Christmas. We’ve had it 2 days. Earlier today we noticed him sleeping and hiding in his rock. Thought this to be unusual, so we sprayed him and fed him. He immediately became active. The. As the day progressed, I noticed him rubbing his head on the rock a few times. We left for about an hour and a half and came home to blood strewn throughout then cage. It even appeared it was sprayed on to the walls. It was his eye area. What do you think has caused this and what should we do? Thanks for your help in advance.
Hi Amy,
Sorry to hear about your beardie. Poor guy. How big is his enclosure? He should have at least a 40 gallon enclosure to be comfortable otherwise they can become very stressed out and may start to rub and dig to get out. They can also get stressed out with new situations and may take a few days to recover. Sometimes it is best to not handle them much and let them become acclimated to their new home. Also, when lizards shed they usually rub against objects to help loosen the skin. Their head is usually one of the first body parts to shed. Make sure there are no sharp or rough surfaces in his cage that he can hurt or injury himself on. If he is shedding, his skin should look grayish or more white and it might help to give him a warm bath. It can sometimes take a while for a beardie to get used to baths, but they tend to really enjoy baths in shallow water. If there are wounds from the rubbing, you can very carefully treat it with iodine (don’t use anything else as it burn or make things worse). I hope this information helps. Please let me know if you have any more questions.
Best of luck with your new beardie!
Mary
thanks for the Info,
I have a concern with my male beardie though and unfortunately cannot afford at the moment to take him to the vet so i was hoping to gain some perspective on here as to what might be going on thanks.
my one year old male bearded dragon has worms, we started a treatment yesterday of 100 mg of panacur orally. We also moved him to a freshly cleaned tanks with new paper towel substrate. What I would like to know is, erratic behaviour common with parasite infestations?
Why I ask is, Yogi (my male with the worms) has been acting erratic, running around his tank and flinging himself at the glass trying to climb as if needing to escape. This has been happening for about two weeks or so and is freaking me out.
We had at first thought this had to do with too hot of temperature. You see we had recently changed his tank to one that was longer but not as deep. So instead of sitting at 100 on his basking side he was at 111 or around there. We now have him in a much larger tank were his basking temp is a normal 100 on the hot side and 82-85 on the cool side, but he is still displaying the same behaviour. Does it sound like his behaviour could actually be a symptom of his parasite infection? Or does it sound like something else?
Please help!
here are some weird behaviours and physical changes Ive noticed that might help explain whats going on.
1)There has been a darkening of his skin color recently.
2)his food intake dropped off and Food choices changed? he only wants superworms and only eats about four a day where he used to eat 15 crickets a day.
3)Defecating less often? It is very smelly and of course there are worms in it (but I already took care of that!
4) He is Spending more time in hiding or in the cooler end of his tank.
5)More active, especially at odd times?
6)Increased tongue-flicking when handled or enclosure is opened?
7)he is gaping more as of today jan17th he wasnt doing this before.
Most of these behaviors sound like they are related to parasites. Parasites can cause a lot of problems like changes in behavior, appetite, defecation, stress, etc. In addition to the changes you already made to help him recover from parasites, you should also make sure you change and clean his cage every time he poops. You need to keep his enclosure as clean as possible. When a beardie has parasites, they desperately try to get away from their poop to get away from the parasites in it. If an accessory cannot be cleaned thoroughly (like anything wood) get rid of it. Also, take him out of the cage as much as possible and if you can feed him the live food in a different cage to prevent the chance of his food getting infected with parasites. Make sure he is getting as much food as possible and supplement his food with calcium carbonate. Continue to give him as many crickets as he wants, but try to lay off the superworms. Give him a bath every day if possible to get rid of anything that might be on his skin making him uncomfortable. Make sure he gets plenty of water, since panacur can dehydrate a beardie. It is normal for him to hide more often while he is trying to recover. Parasite are very stressful. Try to make him as comfortable and distracted as possible while he is recovering.
I hope this information helps and your beardie recovers quickly.
Mary
Hi Mary,
thank you so much for your input it really helped
I removed him from his tank today and disinfect it as well as all of his accessories. I am going to try what you suggested and take him out and put him in a different tank to feed and see how that goes. I am also going to try to give him a bath later this evening and continue doing this on a regular basis. As for taking him out as much as possible that might be tricky as we have cats, but I might take him out and let him hang out in the tub some times that could work.
We have several reptiles in one room do you think I should cover the sides of his tank so that he is not stressed by the other lizards?
I was wondering if there is anything other then paper towel I might use as substrate while he is recovering? I am concerned that with him flailing himself around he might injure himself on the hard glass surface of his tank.
Again thank you so much, you eased a lot of my stress about the situation.
Hi Jennifer,
You can try covering some of the sides if you think the other reptiles are stressing him out, but sometimes covering up the sides can be more stressful for beardies. They usually like to look around. If possible, it might be a better idea to move him into another room while he’s recovering. For substrates, you can also use black and white newspaper, pieces of unmarked (no print) cardboard, egg crates, in addition to paper towels. Unmarked paper products that can be removed and replaced daily work great and can also give your beardie places to hide. Obviously, just make sure none of it can get close to the lights or other heat sources.
I hope he makes a quick recovery. The most important components of his recovery is to keep him well hydrated and on a healthy diet while minimizing stress. Best of Luck with Yogi!
Mary
Thanks Mary,
To my surprise he has been a lot calmer for the last two days and has not been freaking out barley at all. I think he has adjusted to his new tank and that the de-wormer is finally starting to kick in, or at least i hope so. I am giving him his second dose on tuesday hopefully this will really help improve his erratic behaviour. But if he starts up again I will be taking your advice and putting in some egg cartons and newspaper to soften his substrate in case his falls.
Oh I decided to do a good over haul cleaning of the rest of my lizard tanks and there accessories with vinegar just to be on the safe side. I think i’m going to use a squirt bottle of vinegar and water solution to spot clean their tanks every day for now on. I also plan on being meticulous with the cleaning of the cricket tank as i think that was the real culprit. Hopefully all this will prevent parasites from starting up again in the future.
Thanks you for all your help and kind words. I will keep you posted on his recovery!
Thanks for the update Jennifer!
It’s a great idea to clean-up the tanks of the other reptiles. The feeders are commonly the source of parasites, so it’s very smart for you to cleaning them up too. Parasites can be a serious and even deadly problem if it gets to a high load. If you think the feeders are the culprit, it might also be a good idea to treat all the lizards with medication. The most common parasite in bearded dragons is coccidia which is treated with Albon. It’s a good idea to also treat them with Albon (it also treats pinworms). You will need to weigh your beardie and look up the dosing, or go to a vet. Some sites also sell it with out a prescription (http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Albon.html). It’s definitely worth looking into if you think parasites are a problem. I hope this helps!
Best of luck with Yogi and your other lizards!
Mary
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Thanks for the great info Mary as always
Unfortunately Yogi wasn’t doing much better so we took him to the vet on saturday. She did a fecal and proved that yes he does in fact have worms (roundworms) she also saw one coccidia egg. The vet confirmed that we were using the right medicine to treat the worms but that my dosage was quite off (we were giving way less then needed) She gave us liquid panacur ( i was using the cream formula at home). The bottle was enough to dose all my lizards, as she agreed with you that if the feeders were infected then its better to dose them all. She gave me the formula for doing the correct dosage so we gave Yogi and his sister phoenix their medicine today. We will be taking Yogi back in two weeks to see if the worms have cleared up and to check if their is still signs of coccida and if so the vet will be giving us Albon to treat it. We will be giving Panacur to the rest of our lizards following the vets formula tomorrow and see how that goes. The vet also suggested that once a week instead of using vinegar to clean the tanks that i switch to using Stabilized Chlorine Dioxide (oxyfresh) to disinfect the tanks and accessories. Obviously I must take Yogi out and put him in another tank to do this, but its suppose to be the best at killing parasites and other pathogens, so i will give it a try. She also suggested i clean the cricket tank with this once a week when the crickets are removed.
I thought id share the formula for giving the correct dosage of de-wormer as it might be helpful to others who might not be able to take their pet to the vet right away so here is an example of my pet Yogi:
take 75 ml divide it by 1000 this = X divided by 472g (yogi’s weight) then take 75mg times it by (472 his weight) this = 354 mg
divide 354 mg by 100 this equals = 0.35
So the dosage of panacur for Yogi is 0.35cc’s
* note this is only an accurate formula for 100 mg/g bottles of medicine if your bottle contains a different amount then you substitute the 100 by that number.
I know that at first this formula may look confusing it is to me too, fortunately my boyfriend is really good at math so he figured it out for me. For people doing the dosing at home for there pets I found the best way to get a proper weight of your lizard is to use an ordinary food scale we picked ours up for about $10 at a kitchen store they also have them at Walmart. (We confirmed that are scale was accurate as our beardie Yogi weighed the same at the vet.)You can find de-wormer: Panacure(Febendazole or Safe-guard) at farm supply stores, they also sell it surprisingly at Lamlies western wear its around $20. You will need to pick up plastic syringes from a drug store their about $2.00
Next get someone who is strong in math to do work out the formula for you. If you still cant figure it out you can try calling the vet and giving them the weight of your pet and they might provide the dosage amount for you, though they are more likely to do this for you if you have taken your pet to them before. De-worming is suppose to be done once a year but remember not to use this medicine as a preventive at home method, only do it yourself at home if you are certain that your lizard has worms and you cannot afford the vet, good luck everyone!
P.S. It cost me $114 at the Britannia veterinary clinic in calgary. *note if your going to take your pet here, you should try to book an appointment during the week as on the weekends you only get to see the vet for 15 minutes as they are incredibly short staffed and usually over booked.
Thank you for the update. Also, thank you for all the helpful information. I never knew oxfresh was better at getting rid of parasites than bleach, which I normally use. I’m glad Yogi is now on the proper medication and dosing. You’re lucky to a good vet in your area. It can be very hard to find good vets that are knowledgeable in exotics like Bearded Dragons. My vet cost me a lot more and wasn’t able to save my beardie; this is why I started this blog. Hopefully, this information will help other bearded dragon owners. Luckily, it sounds like you caught things in time and all your beardies will benefit. Parasites are the most common health problem in bearded dragons and need to be taken seriously. With the right preventative measures, parasite problems can be completely avoided. Keeping enclosure as clean as possible, thorough regular cleanings with disinfecting solution (bleach or oxyfresh) of the enclosure, accessories, and feeder cages, regular bathing of beardies, annual parasite preventative treatments, and proper diet, nutrition, and light can all together help to prevent parasites from becoming a serious or deadly health issue.
Thank you again for all the information,
Mary
I have a question about my beardie he’s my first one and I’m worried about him he doesn’t eat his veggies no matte how I prepare it plus he won’t drink water is there any tips to get him to drink he’s almost 4 months old in a week
Hi Gaige,
To get your beardie to start eating greens, offer them to him first thing in the morning before offering any other food. Rinse the greens first, chop them into bite size pieces, and spray them with water to help keep him hydrated. At first, you may want to mix in some other more desirable foods like some fruits like peaches, cantaloupe, or papaya chopped up in very small pieces. Just be careful not to give him too much fruit because that can give him watery stool. Fruit should only be an occasional treat. You can also try to hide his insects under the greens to get him interested in the greens and associated them with food. When he finished the insects and realizes that he’s still hungry, he should start eating the greens too. If these tips don’t work, you can also try some sprays from a pet store that are suppose to make food desirable and usually contain some vitamins, minerals, and/or electrolytes.
To keep him hydrated, give him a warm bath about every 4 days. Reptiles can absorb water through their skin. I also find that my beardies will sometimes drink the water while they are in the bath. Make sure the water is safe for beardies to drink (chlorine-free) and the tub or container used for bathing is clean, since reptiles are very sensitive to exposure to chemicals. You can also spritz your beardie with a little bit of water every few days to help keep him hydrated. Be careful not to spray him too often in his enclosure, because it can raise the humidity too high. Some bearded dragon owners also put a water dish in their beardie’s enclosure for them to drink and bath in. Some owners also put a little bit of organic fruit juice in their water to get their beardie to drink it, but if you try this make sure you change the water every day. Since bearded dragon are desert reptiles, you may not see your beardie drinking water from a dish, so I find it is best to bathe them to ensure they stay hydrated. Bathing a beardie also has the added benefits of keeping your beardies skin softer and easier to shed, helps a constipated beardie poop, entertains your beardie, gives him some exercise and time outside of this enclosure.
Hope these tips help,
Mary
Hi there Mary! Love all the info on the beardies(:! Im crazy about them too, unfortunately I need your help! Please, tell me do you think my adult male beardie likes when I keep both curtain shades for him up as soon as he wakes up to look outside and take it all in? or should I keep them down or only have one shade up? I see he always staring outside, sometimes gets wild if they arent up, but its been a bit colder lately and hes been bored it seems, do you think maybe shut or leave open shades?
Hi Cynthia,
Yes, it is a good idea to leave both shades up during the day so he can look outside. Beardies need some distractions during the day, and they tend to enjoy looking outside and watching things happen around them. The only time you might have to be careful about leaving the shades up is if enough light is coming in through the window to heat up the enclosure, especially a glass enclosure since glass amplifies the heat. On really warm and bright days, you should probably leave the shades down a enough to prevent the enclosure from getting too hot.
Please let me know if you have any more questions. Thank you for visiting my site!
Best of luck with your beardie,
Mary
One of my bearded dragons died. They were in the same tank and got along famously. Is there anything I can do to help the other adjust? Can I introduce another? Should it be the same size? Please help.
I’m so sorry to hear about your beardie. Do you know what your bearded dragon died from? To help your other bearded dragon, it is a good idea to thoroughly clean out his cage, get rid of and replace his/her substrate, move things around in the enclosure and maybe get some new accessories to keep your bearded dragon distracted. Also, try giving him/her a bath and giving him/her a few extra treats for the next few days. This will keep your bearded dragon entertained and will change his/her routine enough to distract him/her to help cope. I don’t recommend introducing another bearded dragon at this time. Not all bearded dragon get along, especially if you try to introduce a younger bearded dragon to an older one. Sometimes it can cause even more stress for a beardie to have to adjust to a different bearded dragon. Some bearded dragons fight each other too. If you do choose to introduce another bearded dragon, I recommend waiting at least a few weeks and make sure they are the same size and they are both female. A male and female should not be kept together all the time, and two males should never be together. If or when you introduce another bearded dragon, watch them careful for awhile to make sure they don’t fight and be prepared to separate them if they do. Bearded dragon can seriously hurt or even kill each other if they don’t get along especially if one is smaller than the other.
Again, I’m so sorry to hear about your bearded dragon. I hope your other bearded dragon adjusts quickly. Please let me know if you have any more questions.
Thanks,
Mary
Hello! I have a quick question. I got my bearded dragon about 2 months ago. She is around 5 or 6 months old and came from a breeder who was feeding her about 2 crickets a week (EEEK, I know). She has grown so much since I have had her and just had he first shed with me. She shed everything very well except for her leg and a lot of her head. I am not so much worried about her leg because it looks like it will shed any day now. I bathe her regularly to help loosen it up but her head has had the shed on it for about 2 and a half weeks now. Is there anything I should do and should I be worried?
Hi Rachel,
It can be normal for a bearded dragon to take a long time to shed especially as they get older. The head may be taking longer to shed, because it hasn’t grown as much as the rest of her body has since you’ve had her. You should not be concerned about her head or legs. They will shed on their own in time, but if you want to help it shed faster, continue to give her baths, feed her well, mist her with water in the morning, and if you want you can use a spray called “Repti Shedding Aid” by Zoo Med which helps keep their skin moist. Also, on warm days take her outside to get natural UVB light, which can help your beardie grow faster and be healthier. Natural UVB light is the best for reptiles. The only areas of the body a bearded dragon owner might need to be concerned about when shedding are the toes and tail. If the toes and the tail aren’t shedding well, it can sometimes cause the blood flow to be constricted resulting in other problems. You definitely don’t need to be concerned about that with the legs and head.
I hope this information helps and your bearded dragon sheds soon. Please let me know if you have any other questions.
Thanks,
Mary
Thank You that was very helpful! Now that u mentioned shedding on the tail though I have one more question. Since I have had her she has had a completely normal tail except for the VERY tip of it. It is not much darker than the rest of her tail but it is round instead of pointy. It’s not noticeable by just looking at her, but when I touch her tail I notice it. It is not bend like tail rot, but if I had to guess I would guess excess shed was left there by her previous owner. Is there anything to worry about?
Her tail doesn’t sound like anything to be concerned about. Unfortunately, it’s fairly common for bearded dragons to have some damage on their tails or even toes usually occurring as babies or juveniles, and their tails don’t regenerate like some other lizards. Their tails can be damaged several different ways including getting caught on or in something (like the lid of an enclosure), nips from cage mates, bad sheds, etc. It is very easy for baby bearded dragons (especially silkback beardies) to get some damage to their toes and tail, because they are so tiny. It doesn’t take such at all for the blood supply to their toes and tail to get pinched or cut off resulting in the loss of the affected part of the tail or toe. They tend heal well and are usually not a problem. Based on what you wrote, it sounds like your bearded dragon tail’s might have has some very minor damage to the tip and healed very well.
Hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions.
Thanks again,
Mary
Im adopting a 2 year old beardie and Im concerned what do i check for? Its a she and is there always babys in eggs when they lay them? Just need some basic info! please reply ASAP!
Hi Madison,
Congratulations on adopting a beardie! They are so much fun! Most females will not lay eggs unless they have been fertilized, but some females will sometimes lay unfertilized eggs. If your beardie is going to lay eggs, she will get a really big belly and a few days before she lays eggs you should see and feel lumps in her belly. Then she will start digging a lot in her enclosure. If you not sure if she has been mated, you might want to incubate the eggs to see if there are babies inside (you should also see blood vessels in the eggs if they are fertile, and the eggs will be full and firm). If they’re not fertile, the eggs will probably go bad in a few days. If you’re sure she has never been mated, then the eggs will definitely not have babies in them.
When you get her, make she has a full and plump tail and you cannot see her hip bones. Also, look at her eyes and make sure they are not sunken as this is a sign of dehydration and other serious health problems. Look at her limbs and digits to make sure they have not been broken as this may be a sign of MBD (metabolic bone disease). You should also have her checked or treated for parasites, because this is a very common problem for beardies.
I hope this information helps. Please let me know if you have any more questions.
Best wishes with your new beardie!
Mary
Hi! My bearded dragon is about 1 year old. Her age is estimated because the pet store did not know her exact age when I got her. I guessed around 2 or 3 months. She has had no problems at all since I got her but recently her habits have changed. She has little to no energy. She wont eat greens or crickets. She stays on the cool side of her tank instead of basking and naps during the day. Does not explore when out of her tank. She is still having bowl movements, although this has only been going on a week or so. I mist her several times a day. I don’t use sand as a substrate. Her basking temp is at 98 degrees at her highest perch, 87 degrees on the floor and stays around 75 degrees on her cool side. I dust her food with calcium every day. Her veggie diet consists of kale, collard greens, mustard greens, carrots, green/red peppers, a few grapes and apples occasionally. She is also bathed about once every week. I know that once they reach a year in age they consume more veggies than crickets. Im not sure if this could be causing the behavioral change. But she doesn’t seem to be acting like a healthy dragon.
Thanks!
Hi Nichole,
You need to take your beardie to a vet who specializes in exotics like bearded dragon. You will have to do some research first to find a good vet, because most vets don’t know much about beardies. Make sure you have your beardie tested and/or treated for parasites. Parasites are the most common health problem for beardies (especially if they came from a pet store). Parasites can cause the behavioral changes you are seeing in your beardie, like a change in appetite, becoming lethargic, etc. The change in diet would not cause the changes you are describing; something is wrong, and it’s probably parasites. It looks like you have or temps and diet right. Make sure you also have a good UVB light. Adult bearded dragons are much less active than baby and young beardies, but they don’t sleep all day and they eat normally although a lot less than babies. Your vet will probably put your beardie on Albon and/or Panacur depending on what type(s) of parasites she has. Make sure you keep your beardies very well hydrated. Also, you will need to sanitize her enclosure and keep it spotless along with her feeders. If you can, take her outside to get natural UVB light, which is best for them. Parasites are a serious health problem for reptiles, and need to be taken seriously as they can cause a lot of problems and can even kill a reptile.
I hope this information helps and your bearded dragon recovers quickly. Please let me know if you have any more questions.
Thanks,
Mary
Yes my bearded dragon is a light tan and light brown color. And i happened to take it out of its cage and it turned dark colors, as in brown, black, and tan. Is that something i should worry about cause its always been a light color?
Hi TJ,
It can be normal for a bearded dragon to turn dark colors from time to time. It can mean the bearded dragon is stressed out, cold, uncomfortable, etc. It is nothing to worry about as long as your bearded dragon is normally a light color most of the time.
Thanks,
Mary
Hello there,
I had just moved my girlfriend in with me along with her female bearded dragon named Riddik 3 days ago. Riddik is constantly flailing her arms against her glass tank and is almost refusing to eat when we attempt to feed her. We have no clue what to do and we are both extremely worried about Riddik’s health. Please get back to us ASAP!
Thank you
William
Hi William,
Any change can be very stressful for most reptiles, and Riddik is clearly very upset with her new living situation. Do you have other animals in your home? Other animals can sometimes really stress out a beardie. Also, some times something in a room can stress out a beardie (ex. I had a beardie that freaked out about a duster!) If you can, move her into a quiet room by herself where there isn’t a lot of action going on around her. She needs to take a break until she can calm down and feel at home. You might want to take her out to give her a warm bath to help her feel a little better. Keep her cage as clean as possible and make sure she has several good hiding and basking spots in her enclosure along with a UVB light and heat light. Check the temperatures in her cage to make sure it’s not getting too hot or cold. How big is her enclosure? She needs at least a 40 gallon tank. Give her more of her favorite treats for the next few days. It will take her a few days to adjust to her new home. Try to keep things as stress-free as possible for her. If her behavior doesn’t improve in a few days, take her to a vet who specializes in exotics to make sure there’s nothing wrong with her health that would cause her stress. Make sure she gets tested/treated for parasites, because they can cause changes in behavior. Also, check her for mites, because they can cause a beardie to freak out too. I hope this information helps and Riddik’s behavior improves really soon.
Thanks,
Mary
thank you
Hello! I read many many comments and question on here! Great site!!
I was wondering if you could help me. I rescued a baby Beardie (Actually 3 of them..one died the same day.. the other grew Fast and was re-homed). This one, I kept. She seemed to need more care. She is probably close to 12″ and is over a year and half old. Her growth was stunted from such poor conditions. They were found in the basement of a moved-out tenant next door. I took them and tried to save them. I hired an online reptile vet to help. The suggestion was to bath them in Pedialite (For dehydrated babies).. and it save this two lives!!! 
Anyways.. my question now is that I AM scared of her! LOL I am not a reptile nut. I have now bonded with her.. I pet her through the glass… and she closes her eyes and loves it! I want to REALLY pet her.. but I am scared! What is the best way to get over this and let her know that I am friendly as well?? When i put my hand in.. she always thinks I have FOOD as that is the normal situation. But I want to PET her!! I want to take her out and not call my SON to get her for me… I Know she knows my voice and loves my Pets through glass 
She was VERY nervous for a long time.. I supposed from what she had been through.. I want to bond with her in a one and one.. Please help us if you can? Many thanks!!
Hi Cindy,
Those beardies were lucky you saved them and gave them a chance. I can’t believe someone would just leave 3 bearded dragons in a basement! Poor beardies! Please don’t be afraid of your bearded dragon! They are harmless and most of them are very docile. It is normal for them to associate their owner’s hands with food, but it’s very uncommon for them to actual bite. When you try to pick her up, always go from behind (don’t stick your hands in front of her face) and gently slide your under the side her belly to lift her up. The best time to hold a beardie is a night while she is asleep or about to go to sleep. Put her on your shoulder or torso, and she will snuggle you! They love the warmth of a human body! She will likely fall asleep on you then you can pet her all you want with no worries. Another good way to bond with your beardie is to bathe her. It might take her some getting used to, but take her out for a bath a couple times every week. They tend to enjoy a warm bath on occasion, it helps keep them hydrated, helps them relax, can help them if they are constipated, keeps them clean, gives them some exercise and time outside their enclosure, and has other benefits in addition to giving you a chance to bond with your pet. Also, on warm sunny days take her outside in a safe area (like a screened-in patio) to let her bask in natural UVB light. Natural UVB light is the best for beardies and helps keep them healthy. It might even help her catch up in her growth a little. I also like to give my beardies treats while they are out getting natural UVB light, so they enjoy being taken out and handled even more.
I hope this information helps you bond with your beardie. Please let me know if you have any more questions.
Thank you for liking my site!
Mary
Hi, my beardie, Bruce, is about 3 months old now and seems to be doing really well! I was wondering if there was any advice you could give on how to entertain him? He has plants and rocks to climb in his tank, but only runs around after his crickets and locust, but reading this, other people’s beardies run around for fun? I have tried him with fresh greens and fruit, but to no avail, he just throws it around his tank. Also, he only seems to like me and not my partner…are they a one owner kind of reptile?
Any help and advice you can give would be greatly appreciated!
Hi Ally,
To keep your beardie entertained, try to take him out of his enclosure as much as possible. Let him run around in a safe and supervised area. If you can, on nice warm days take him outside in a safe area (like a screened in patio. I also got a mesh playpen for my beardies). Natural UVB light is best for reptiles and helps keep them healthy. Also, try giving Bruce a bath a couple times a week. They tend to enjoy it (although it might take him some getting used to) and it helps keep them well hydrated. Try to give Bruce some new experiences outside of his tank like let him lay on a window sill while you watch him. Take him out in the evening to snuggle you (beardies love the warmth of our bodies and they tend to snuggle and fall asleep on you). I’ve heard that some bearded dragon owners play videos for their bearded dragons when they are not home to entertain their beardies. My adult beardies also enjoy a sand castle in their tanks that they can climb on and destroy (but your beardie isn’t big enough for this yet).
To get him to start eating greens, offer him the greens first thing in the morning before offering him anything else. Chop the greens up well and mix in a small amount of different fruits like cantaloupe, melon, peaches, prickly pears, dandelions, etc. to make the greens more appealing to your beardie. Also, spray the greens with a little bit of water and leave it in the cage for at least an hour before offering him any thing else. When Bruce is older, start feeding him less and less crickets and locust and more greens. At his age, it’s common for a bearded dragon not to eat much greens, but if he’s hungry and thirsty enough in the morning he will start to eat the greens.
Bearded dragons tend to like the people who feed them. They are not usually a one owner kind of reptile, but the might not like everyone. They also sometimes remember if someone hurt them or was rough with them and tend to not like that person. You can try to get a bearded dragon to like someone by having that person give him his favorite treats.
I hope this information helps. Please let me know if you have anymore questions.
Thanks,
Mary
Hiya you know a lot of bearded dragon info I need some advise I have 2 beardies and they eat greens and some fruit and they eat crickets and hoppers but I’ve just bought them some soft pellets to try them out but I don’t know if I should put the bearded dragons calcium powder on them also do I still keep giving them there crickets and hoppers as normal and do I keep giving them veg n fruit it’s says complete nutrition etc.. But I don’t know if it means complete food all round look forward to hearing from you thanx
Hi Leann,
The pellets should only be fed to beardies in addition to their regular diet, so continue to give your two beardies greens, some fruits, crickets, and hoppers as usual. The pellets don’t have as much nutrition as their regular diet and have not been thoroughly tested to provide adequate nutrition for bearded dragons. I don’t recommend putting calcium powder on the soft pellets, because they may not eat them. I recommend putting the calcium carbonate powder on the crickets or hoppers only, because beardies almost always eat their insects making it easy to control how much calcium they get.
I hope this information helps. Please let me know if you have any more questions.
Thanks,
Mary